Monday, December 28, 2009

Food for thought: Classic foods and winterizing



WINTERIZE ME!
Well, Jack Frost is definitely nipping on our noses! It's winter, and for me that means not only eating heartier foods but avoiding lifeless fruits and veggies ant the market. Relying more on dried fruits, seeds or nuts, in-season foods and even canned and frozen foods will help avoid a winter rut.

Here's a list of in-season/readily available foods at their peak for the DC metro area:
Apples
Arugula
Bananas
Belgian Endive
Butternut Squash
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots
Chestnuts
Coconut
Collard Greens
Cranberries
Dates
Grapefruit
Kale
Kiwifruit
Kumquats
Leeks
Onions
Oranges
Parsley
Parsnips
Passion Fruit
Pear
Persimmon
Pomegranate
Pomelo
Potatoes
Radicchio
Red Currants
Rosemary
Sweet Potatoes
Tangerines
Thyme
Turnips
Winter Squash like pumpkin, butternut, acorn

Note: Some fruits like citrus, coconut, pineapple, bananas and dates are not local but are consistently available can serve as a trade wind for salads, desserts and main dishes.

Do Mediterranean tapas seem out of place with snow on the ground? Ring in the new year with entrées à la Russe: Try Zasuki, Russian and Georgian starters Zasuki ideas from The Splendid Table.

A LOVELY WINTER BRUNCH OR LUNCH

Fried chick peas seem to be the new "thing", so save some money and do these at home!

* 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
* 6 tablespoons olive oil
* 4 garlic cloves, minced
* 2 15 1/2-ounce cans garbanzo beans (chickpeas), well drained
* Optional: Cumin, smoked paprika, sea salt, cayenne pepper, sumac (or lemon pepper), toasted sesame seeds

Melt butter with olive oil in another large pot over high heat. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add garbanzo beans and sauté until garbanzo beans begin to color and pop, about 8 minutes. Toss with spices.

Here is a recipe using fried chick peas.


Savory Cheesecake with Onions Confit

It dawned on me recently that I love the taste and texture of a good homemade cheesecake but not the sweetness. This cheesecake is terrific on a brunch menu, and everything can be done ahead. Next time, thinking of adding roasted red pepper & tomatoes coulis for a "trompe-la-langue" effect.

Chèvre Cheesecake

* 1 cup cracker crumbs or crushed pretzels (my favorite)
* 1/4 cup butter, melted
* 3 pkg. (250 g each) cream cheese, softened
* 1 lb. (just under 500 g) soft fresh goat cheese
* 1 cup sour cream
* 4 eggs

Instructions
Preheat oven to 325°F if using a silver 9-inch springform pan (or to 300°F if using a dark nonstick 9-inch springform pan). Mix crumbs and butter; press firmly onto bottom of pan. Bake 10 min.
Beat cream cheese and goat cheese in large bowl with electric mixer on medium speed until well blended. Add sour cream; mix well. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed after each addition just until blended. Pour over crust.
Bake 1 hour 10 min. or until center is almost set. Run knife or metal spatula around rim of pan to loosen cake; cool before removing rim of pan. Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight. Store leftover cheesecake in refrigerator.

Onion Confit
(also known as caramelized onions) Try this with filet mignon!


* 1 pound sweet or red onions (about 3 medium)
* 1 teaspoon olive oil
* 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Halve onions and cut each half lengthwise into 6 wedges or slice using slicer blade attachment in food processor. In a 2-quart heavy saucepan heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and sauté onions, stirring, until edges are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in balsamic vinegar and simmer, covered, until onions are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove lid and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is slightly thickened and syrupy, about 10 minutes more.

Here's a variation with cranberries and dried apricot to try with turkey, duck (add some orange zest) or a toasted brie sandwich. Recommend reducing the vinegar to 1/4 cup.

Raw tomatoes' glory days are gone until next summer. In its place, here is great Autumn/Winter salad. Check out the web page for additional menu ideas.

Arugula Salad with Pomegranate and Toasted Pecans
* 1 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
* 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar
* 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
* 1/8 freshly ground pepper
* 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
* 2 medium bunches arugula, rinsed well and thick stems removed
* 1/3 cup pecans, toasted and roughly chopped
* 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds, from 1 medium pomegranate

In medium nonreactive bowl, whisk together vinegars, salt, and pepper. Gradually drizzle in olive oil, whisking until emulsified. Toss arugula with just enough vinaigrette to coat. Sprinkle with pecans and pomegranate seeds and serve.


This crêpe recipe is perfect. I used a 12-inch cast iron skillet both times I've made these. I left out the cognac and added a little extra milk. Make sure you have no lumps; a key factor is having all ingredients at room temperature so the butter doesn't clump. And do sift the dry ingredients! Raw sugar (with large crystals) will not work in this recipe. Heavenly with Nutella!


Basic Crepes with Cognac House & Garden | December 1959

by James A. Beard
Yield: About 12 small or 8 large sweet crêpes
ingredients
7/8 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind (or a little grated vanilla bean)
2 tablespoons cognac
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 1/2 cups milk
preparation

For this basic crêpe recipe, sift flour, sugar, and salt. Add eggs, one at a time, and mix until no lumps remain (you may use an electric mixer at slow speed). Mix in lemon rind or vanilla, cognac, and melted butter. Slowly add milk and mix until batter is consistency of thin cream. Let it stand an hour or two before making crêpes.

Heat a crêpe pan (either 6-inch or 10-inch, according to desired size of crêpes) and rub it with butter. (It should sizzle on touching pan) For each crêpe, pour a little batter into the pan, tilting about to let it run, covering the bottom in a fairly thin layer. When lightly browned on the bottom, turn carefully with spatula. Pat turned crêpe flat with fingers and brown other side. As each crêpe is cooked, remove it to a hot platter and keep warm. Re-butter pan as needed.


Photo by: Romulo Yanes

1 comment:

Laurie said...

I adore winter produce. The sunny colors of tropical fruits and citrus make a beautiful fruit platter: mango, pink grapefruit segments, pineapple, orange segments and kiwi are one of my favorite combinations.