Thursday, December 31, 2009

Food for thought: Let them eat steak!



I love steak. Here's how to make it well at home.

Juicy Pan-Seared Steak with Mushroom-Wine Sauce

Favorite cuts: Boneless NY Strip, Strip Sirloin, Filet Mignon

Dismayed when you make expensive steak at home and it turns gray and all the juices run out? Here's a recipe with a method from Cook's Illustrated that takes longer but yields a tender, juicy steak.

First off, if using a really thick steak, cut it in half, reducing the length to create an 8-ounce steak. If you already have an 8-ounce steak that isn't very thick, use a 250-degree oven instead of 275.

Second, in order to get a good sear, a non-coated pan is the appropriate option. Either a heavy steel pan or cast-iron skillet will do. If you use a nonstick pan, I can't vouch for the desired results.

For 4 servings:
4 8-oz steaks, ideally 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches thick & cut to proper weight
Coarse salt and cracked pepper (or any kind of salt & pepper handy)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Put oven rack in the middle position and heat to 250-275 (read above). Use a paper towel to dry steaks. Place steaks on a baking sheet/ glass pan, then season steaks with salt & pepper. Note: if you want to make a sauce, do it now! Cook 20-30 minutes: 20 for rare, 25 for medium, 30 for medium well (32 for well done). Remove from oven and set on a heat-proof surface.

Heat oil in skillet on HIGH heat until you see a wisp of smoke. Sear first side for 1 1/2 minutes. Lift and flip to cook the bottom for 2 minutes on MEDIUM heat. Use two large spoons or tongs to cook the edges until they are visibly cooked. Let rest, loosely covered for 10 minutes.

1 tablespoon olive oil
About 3 cups/1 container sliced cremini or "baby Bella" mushrooms
1 small shallot or 1/2 mild onion, minced very fine
1 cup red wine
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar or 1 teaspoon regular vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces
fresh herbs--parsley or thyme
salt & pepper

Over HIGH heat, cook mushrooms until water almost disappears (this can take anywhere from 5-10 minutes). Reduce heat to MEDIUM, add shallot or onion until it starts to look transparent and brown, 1-2 minutes. Over HIGH heat again, add wine and broth, cleaning off any stuck bits in pan, letting mixture bubble and reduce in size, about 7 minutes. Turn off stove. Add vinegar and mustard, stirring well. With a whisk or two forks, gently stir in butter and herbs. Keep warm. When steaks are resting, mix in juices from steak into sauce.


Fajitas in a Cast-Iron Skillet
Favorite cuts: Tri-Tip, flank, skirt steak


Again, the skillet and oven team up again to make a wonderful steak. However, this steak starts off on the stove and finishes in the oven. A key no-no: vinegar/other acidic liquids ruin the texture of this meat, so make a paste with aromatics and oil.

Marinade for 2 pounds steak:
4-6 cloves garlic, minced very fine or pressed through a garlic press
1 teaspoon smoked paprika or 1 chipotle or other smoked pepper, softened with hot water
Fresh jalapeno pepper, seeds removed, for extra heat, if desired
1/2 onion or 2 scallions, finely chopped
6 tablespoons oil (recommend canola)
black pepper
oregano
cumin
Mix above ingredients in blender until it makes a smooth paste.

Cut meat into desired fajita-sized pieces, making sure they are uniform. Recommend 1/2-inch thick & wide by 4+ inches long (will shrink). Heavily salt meat on exposed sides with Kosher salt. OR sprinkle sea salt liberally but do not coat meat heavily. Spread paste on meat and let marinate in fridge for 40 MINUTES.

Remove meat from fridge for 20 MINUTES. Heat oven to 375. Heat cast-iron skillet on stove to HIGH with 1 tablespoon oil. Sear meat in two batches, resisting the urge to turn it over for 1 MINUTE. Flip meat to cook 1 minute, then move first batch onto heat-proof container. Wipe clean with dry paper towel. Add 1 tablespoon oil and repeat searing process. Transfer first batch into cast-iron skillet and move to hot oven for 15 minutes, less if rarer meat is desired.

Meanwhile, sauté onions, peppers and other vegetables (if desired) on stove just before meat is ready.

Broiled Chuck Steak with Compound Butter

Favorite cut: Chuck Blade
Cheap and flavorful, this cut's flaw is a thin band of gristle in the middle. But for $4.50/lb, I can overlook that! I also like the relatively small size of the steaks.
Set oven on broil--gas oven or toaster oven works best. Just before putting in the oven, salt liberally (I like Kosher or coarse sea salt best) and pepper--freshly cracked pepper is my favorite. Broil for 5-10 minutes. The first time is trial and error. Stay put and track how long it takes. Top with butter. It's best to let the cooked steak rest 15 minutes before serving. Cover with a foil pie plate, tented foil or a microwave cover to keep it somewhat warm.

Compound butter
1 stick butter, room temperature (save a little for potatoes or Yorkshire pudding)
2 sprigs parsley, chopped well
1 clove garlic or, even better, 1 shallot, finely minced until you can barely see it
1/2 teaspoon salt, optional
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino cheese
In a small bowl, mix ingredients with a wooden spoon or two forks until well incorporated into butter. Optional: Chill in refrigerator or freezer (for quick turnaround) and use a melon baller to scoop into small balls.

Yorkshire Pudding (a massive popover!)
- a great, classic accompaniment to a great steak
Ingredients

2 large eggs, beaten
1 cup milk
1 cup flour (scant cup)
salt, to taste
1/4 cup beef drippings or 4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

Directions
Heat a baking pan (like a cake pan) in the oven (set at 450F) until it is hot.

Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, beat the eggs with an electric mixer (or a LOT of elbow grease) until they are light and fluffy. Gradually beat in the scant cup of flour and the milk. Add salt and about 2 tablespoons of beef drippings from the roast it is assumed you are also making (or use 2 tablespoons butter.)

Remove hot pan from oven, then pour 1/4 cup of beef drippings into the bottom of the heated pan. Immediately pour in batter and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and cook for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until Yorkshire is puffy and well browned. Cut into squares to serve.

James Beard suggests making this after the roast comes out of the oven:"This can be done after the roast is removed from the oven and while it is standing to let the juices settle".

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