Food for thought: Let them eat steak!

I love steak. Here's how to make it well at home.

Juicy Pan-Seared Steak with Mushroom-Wine Sauce
Favorite cuts: Boneless NY Strip, Strip Sirloin, Filet Mignon

Dismayed when you make expensive steak at home and it turns gray and all the juices run out? Here's a recipe with a method from Cook's Illustrated that takes longer but yields a tender, juicy steak.

First off, if using a really thick steak, cut it in half, reducing the length to create an 8-ounce steak. If you already have an 8-ounce steak that isn't very thick, use a 250-degree oven instead of 275.

Second, in order to get a good sear, a non-coated pan is the appropriate option. Either a heavy steel pan or cast-iron skillet will do. If you use a nonstick pan, I can't vouch for the desired results.

For 4 servings:
4 8-oz steaks, ideally 1 1/2 to 1 3/4 inches thick & cut to proper weight
Coarse salt and cracked pepper (or any kind of salt & pepper handy)
1 tablespoon vegetable oil

Put oven rack in the middle position and heat to 250-275 (read above). Use a paper towel to dry steaks. Place steaks on a baking sheet/ glass pan, then season steaks with salt & pepper. Note: if you want to make a sauce, do it now! Cook 20-30 minutes: 20 for rare, 25 for medium, 30 for medium well (32 for well done). Remove from oven and set on a heat-proof surface.

Heat oil in skillet on HIGH heat until you see a wisp of smoke. Sear first side for 1 1/2 minutes. Lift and flip to cook the bottom for 2 minutes on MEDIUM heat. Use two large spoons or tongs to cook the edges until they are visibly cooked. Let rest, loosely covered for 10 minutes.

1 tablespoon olive oil
About 3 cups/1 container sliced cremini or "baby Bella" mushrooms
1 small shallot or 1/2 mild onion, minced very fine
1 cup red wine
1/2 cup chicken broth
1 tablespoon balsamic vinegar or 1 teaspoon regular vinegar
1 teaspoon Dijon mustard
2 tablespoons butter, cut into small pieces
fresh herbs--parsley or thyme
salt & pepper

Over HIGH heat, cook mushrooms until water almost disappears (this can take anywhere from 5-10 minutes). Reduce heat to MEDIUM, add shallot or onion until it starts to look transparent and brown, 1-2 minutes. Over HIGH heat again, add wine and broth, cleaning off any stuck bits in pan, letting mixture bubble and reduce in size, about 7 minutes. Turn off stove. Add vinegar and mustard, stirring well. With a whisk or two forks, gently stir in butter and herbs. Keep warm. When steaks are resting, mix in juices from steak into sauce.


Fajitas in a Cast-Iron Skillet
Favorite cuts: Tri-Tip, flank, skirt steak


Again, the skillet and oven team up again to make a wonderful steak. However, this steak starts off on the stove and finishes in the oven. A key no-no: vinegar/other acidic liquids ruin the texture of this meat, so make a paste with aromatics and oil.

Marinade for 2 pounds steak:
4-6 cloves garlic, minced very fine or pressed through a garlic press
1 teaspoon smoked paprika or 1 chipotle or other smoked pepper, softened with hot water
Fresh jalapeno pepper, seeds removed, for extra heat, if desired
1/2 onion or 2 scallions, finely chopped
6 tablespoons oil (recommend canola)
black pepper
oregano
cumin
Mix above ingredients in blender until it makes a smooth paste.

Cut meat into desired fajita-sized pieces, making sure they are uniform. Recommend 1/2-inch thick & wide by 4+ inches long (will shrink). Heavily salt meat on exposed sides with Kosher salt. OR sprinkle sea salt liberally but do not coat meat heavily. Spread paste on meat and let marinate in fridge for 40 MINUTES.

Remove meat from fridge for 20 MINUTES. Heat oven to 375. Heat cast-iron skillet on stove to HIGH with 1 tablespoon oil. Sear meat in two batches, resisting the urge to turn it over for 1 MINUTE. Flip meat to cook 1 minute, then move first batch onto heat-proof container. Wipe clean with dry paper towel. Add 1 tablespoon oil and repeat searing process. Transfer first batch into cast-iron skillet and move to hot oven for 15 minutes, less if rarer meat is desired.

Meanwhile, sauté onions, peppers and other vegetables (if desired) on stove just before meat is ready.

Broiled Chuck Steak with Compound Butter
Favorite cut: Chuck Blade
Cheap and flavorful, this cut's flaw is a thin band of gristle in the middle. But for $4.50/lb, I can overlook that! I also like the relatively small size of the steaks.
Set oven on broil--gas oven or toaster oven works best. Just before putting in the oven, salt liberally (I like Kosher or coarse sea salt best) and pepper--freshly cracked pepper is my favorite. Broil for 5-10 minutes. The first time is trial and error. Stay put and track how long it takes. Top with butter. It's best to let the cooked steak rest 15 minutes before serving. Cover with a foil pie plate, tented foil or a microwave cover to keep it somewhat warm.

Compound butter
1 stick butter, room temperature (save a little for potatoes or Yorkshire pudding)
2 sprigs parsley, chopped well
1 clove garlic or, even better, 1 shallot, finely minced until you can barely see it
1/2 teaspoon salt, optional
2 tablespoons grated Parmigiano-Reggiano or Pecorino cheese
In a small bowl, mix ingredients with a wooden spoon or two forks until well incorporated into butter. Optional: Chill in refrigerator or freezer (for quick turnaround) and use a melon baller to scoop into small balls.

Yorkshire Pudding (a massive popover!)
- a great, classic accompaniment to a great steak
Ingredients

2 large eggs, beaten
1 cup milk
1 cup flour (scant cup)
salt, to taste
1/4 cup beef drippings or 4 tablespoons butter, melted and cooled to room temperature

Directions
Heat a baking pan (like a cake pan) in the oven (set at 450F) until it is hot.

Meanwhile, in a mixing bowl, beat the eggs with an electric mixer (or a LOT of elbow grease) until they are light and fluffy. Gradually beat in the scant cup of flour and the milk. Add salt and about 2 tablespoons of beef drippings from the roast it is assumed you are also making (or use 2 tablespoons butter.)

Remove hot pan from oven, then pour 1/4 cup of beef drippings into the bottom of the heated pan. Immediately pour in batter and bake for 10 minutes. Reduce heat to 350F and cook for 10 to 15 minutes longer, until Yorkshire is puffy and well browned. Cut into squares to serve.

James Beard suggests making this after the roast comes out of the oven:"This can be done after the roast is removed from the oven and while it is standing to let the juices settle".

Food for thought: Classic foods and winterizing

WINTERIZE ME!
Well, Jack Frost is definitely nipping on our noses! It's winter, and for me that means not only eating heartier foods but avoiding lifeless fruits and veggies ant the market. Relying more on dried fruits, seeds or nuts, in-season foods and even canned and frozen foods will help avoid a winter rut.

Here's a list of in-season/readily available foods at their peak for the DC metro area:
Apples
Arugula
Bananas
Belgian Endive
Butternut Squash
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots
Chestnuts
Coconut
Collard Greens
Cranberries
Dates
Grapefruit
Kale
Kiwifruit
Kumquats
Leeks
Onions
Oranges
Parsley
Parsnips
Passion Fruit
Pear
Persimmon
Pomegranate
Pomelo
Potatoes
Radicchio
Red Currants
Rosemary
Sweet Potatoes
Tangerines
Thyme
Turnips
Winter Squash like pumpkin, butternut, acorn

Note: Some fruits like citrus, coconut, pineapple, bananas and dates are not local but are consistently available can serve as a trade wind for salads, desserts and main dishes.

Do Mediterranean tapas seem out of place with snow on the ground? Ring in the new year with entrées à la Russe: Try Zasuki, Russian and Georgian starters Zasuki ideas from The Splendid Table.

A LOVELY WINTER BRUNCH OR LUNCH
Fried chick peas seem to be the new "thing", so save some money and do these at home!

* 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
* 6 tablespoons olive oil
* 4 garlic cloves, minced
* 2 15 1/2-ounce cans garbanzo beans (chickpeas), well drained
* Optional: Cumin, smoked paprika, sea salt, cayenne pepper, sumac (or lemon pepper), toasted sesame seeds

Melt butter with olive oil in another large pot over high heat. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add garbanzo beans and sauté until garbanzo beans begin to color and pop, about 8 minutes. Toss with spices.

Here is a recipe using fried chick peas.


Savory Cheesecake with Onions Confit

It dawned on me recently that I love the taste and texture of a good homemade cheesecake but not the sweetness. This cheesecake is terrific on a brunch menu, and everything can be done ahead. Next time, thinking of adding roasted red pepper & tomatoes coulis for a "trompe-la-langue" effect.

Chèvre Cheesecake

* 1 cup cracker crumbs or crushed pretzels (my favorite)
* 1/4 cup butter, melted
* 3 pkg. (250 g each) cream cheese, softened
* 1 lb. (just under 500 g) soft fresh goat cheese
* 1 cup sour cream
* 4 eggs

Instructions
Preheat oven to 325°F if using a silver 9-inch springform pan (or to 300°F if using a dark nonstick 9-inch springform pan). Mix crumbs and butter; press firmly onto bottom of pan. Bake 10 min.
Beat cream cheese and goat cheese in large bowl with electric mixer on medium speed until well blended. Add sour cream; mix well. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed after each addition just until blended. Pour over crust.
Bake 1 hour 10 min. or until center is almost set. Run knife or metal spatula around rim of pan to loosen cake; cool before removing rim of pan. Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight. Store leftover cheesecake in refrigerator.

Onion Confit (also known as caramelized onions) Try this with filet mignon!


* 1 pound sweet or red onions (about 3 medium)
* 1 teaspoon olive oil
* 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Halve onions and cut each half lengthwise into 6 wedges or slice using slicer blade attachment in food processor. In a 2-quart heavy saucepan heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and sauté onions, stirring, until edges are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in balsamic vinegar and simmer, covered, until onions are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove lid and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is slightly thickened and syrupy, about 10 minutes more.

Here's a variation with cranberries and dried apricot to try with turkey, duck (add some orange zest) or a toasted brie sandwich. Recommend reducing the vinegar to 1/4 cup.

Raw tomatoes' glory days are gone until next summer. In its place, here is great Autumn/Winter salad. Check out the web page for additional menu ideas.

Arugula Salad with Pomegranate and Toasted Pecans
* 1 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
* 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar
* 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
* 1/8 freshly ground pepper
* 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
* 2 medium bunches arugula, rinsed well and thick stems removed
* 1/3 cup pecans, toasted and roughly chopped
* 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds, from 1 medium pomegranate

In medium nonreactive bowl, whisk together vinegars, salt, and pepper. Gradually drizzle in olive oil, whisking until emulsified. Toss arugula with just enough vinaigrette to coat. Sprinkle with pecans and pomegranate seeds and serve.


This crêpe recipe is perfect. I used a 12-inch cast iron skillet both times I've made these. I left out the cognac and added a little extra milk. Make sure you have no lumps; a key factor is having all ingredients at room temperature so the butter doesn't clump. And do sift the dry ingredients! Raw sugar (with large crystals) will not work in this recipe. Heavenly with Nutella!


Basic Crepes with Cognac House & Garden | December 1959

by James A. Beard
Yield: About 12 small or 8 large sweet crêpes
ingredients
7/8 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind (or a little grated vanilla bean)
2 tablespoons cognac
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 1/2 cups milk
preparation

For this basic crêpe recipe, sift flour, sugar, and salt. Add eggs, one at a time, and mix until no lumps remain (you may use an electric mixer at slow speed). Mix in lemon rind or vanilla, cognac, and melted butter. Slowly add milk and mix until batter is consistency of thin cream. Let it stand an hour or two before making crêpes.

Heat a crêpe pan (either 6-inch or 10-inch, according to desired size of crêpes) and rub it with butter. (It should sizzle on touching pan) For each crêpe, pour a little batter into the pan, tilting about to let it run, covering the bottom in a fairly thin layer. When lightly browned on the bottom, turn carefully with spatula. Pat turned crêpe flat with fingers and brown other side. As each crêpe is cooked, remove it to a hot platter and keep warm. Re-butter pan as needed.


Photo by: Romulo Yanes