Tuesday, November 20, 2012

Giving Thanks

I don't know why, but I see Thanksgiving as a culinary challenge. Can I bake bread? How will a brined turkey turn out? What if I replace pumpkin for applesauce; will the cake still turn out?

Luckily, these days I have cooked enough and have enough on my proverbial plate to cruise on autopilot. Tried and true, rock steady. Cooking experts advise against trying one's hand with new things. Who wants to get flustered? How can you explain an overflowing pot of milk in your mother-in-law's house? (Making ricotta cheese for the best lasagne EVAH seemed like a good idea at the time...)

Here are recipes that I have made for many years, have recently tried or have on good authority that all will be well. Happy cooking, give thanks for the harvest and what we have, and make enough for leftovers!

Meats:

My favorite and only turkey recipe!! Read ahead of time; brining is involved, so you need to start the day ahead.Turkey with Sage Butter

My favorite lamb recipe: Apricot and Rosemary Marinated Leg of Lamb


Starches:

Fried sweet white potato oven fries

Caribbean Rice Pilaf-the butternut squash and coconut milk create a wonderful juxtaposition of foods found in the Americas.

Pumpkin Nutmeg Dinner Rolls -AMAZING with herbed garlic butter, orange honey butter and on their own!


Vegetables:

Green Crunchy Broccoli with Cream

1/2 cup heavy cream, 1 clove garlic, chopped parsley, 1 teaspoon olive oil, garlic salt or sea salt, and or pepper to taste. Cook on high heat until liquid vigorously bubbles and starts turning golden yellow. To that add:

3-4 pounds FRESH broccoli. Frozen will not work! Cook 3-5 minutes until broccoli is coated, bright green and softening but still firm when tossed.

Waldorf Salad

This has been my favorite since childhood. Sweet, savory, crunchy and creamy, this marries the other tastes on the Thanksgiving plate.

1/2 cup chopped walnuts
1/2 cup plain yogurt
2 tablespoons mayonnaise
1 teaspoon honey
1/2 lemon, zest finely grated and juice reserved
Freshly ground black pepper
2 large crisp apples, such as Gala
2 ribs celery (with leaves), sliced into 1/2-inch-thick pieces (leaves chopped)
1/4 cup golden raisins or dried sweetened cranberries
1/2 lemon, juiced
Optional: 1 head Boston lettuce, trimmed, washed, and dried
Directions
Whisk the yogurt, mayonnaise, honey, and lemon zest in a large bowl and season generously with pepper.
Halve, core, and cut the apples into 3/4-inch pieces, leaving the skin intact. Add the apples, celery and raisins to the bowl, and sprinkle with the lemon juice; then toss with the dressing. Cover and refrigerate if not serving immediately.
When ready to serve, toss walnuts into the salad. Optional: Arrange the lettuce leaves on a large platter, or divide them among 4 salad plates. Place the salad on the lettuce and serve.


Arugula Salad with Pomegranate and Toasted Pecans

* 1 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar

* 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar

* 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt

* 1/8 freshly ground pepper

* 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil

* 2 medium bunches arugula, rinsed well and thick stems removed

* 1/3 cup pecans, toasted and roughly chopped

* 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds, from 1 medium pomegranate
In medium nonreactive bowl, whisk together vinegars, salt, and pepper. Gradually drizzle in olive oil, whisking until emulsified. Toss arugula with just enough vinaigrette to coat. Sprinkle with pecans and pomegranate seeds and serve.

SWEET POTATOES WITH ANDOUILLE SAUSAGE HASH

So good and satisfying! Here's my imagined rendering of this sweet, hot and savory side. Try adding 10 ounces fresh kale or spinach to boost the health benefits and a pinch of smoked paprika for a Spanish flavor.


3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, divided

12 ounces fully cooked smoked Andouille sausage or chorizo sausage, cut crosswise into 1/4-inch-thick slices (Trader Joe's has chicken Andouille sausage if low-fat sausage is preferred)

2 medium onions, chopped

2 large garlic cloves, minced

1 teaspoon smoked paprika

dash cayenne or Sriracha hot pepper sauce

3 pounds red-skinned sweet potatoes (sometimes called yams; about 3 large), peeled, quartered lengthwise, cut crosswise into 1/2-inch cubes

2 cups low-salt chicken broth

Dash red wine or sherry vinegar
Heat 2 tablespoons oil in heavy large saucepan over medium-high heat. Add sausage and cook until brown, stirring often, about 8 minutes. Transfer sausage to paper towels to drain. Add onions and garlic to pot and cook until translucent, stirring often, about 5 minutes. Add potatoes and cook until beginning to soften, stirring often, about 12 minutes. Add broth; bring to boil, scraping up browned bits. Reduce heat to medium-low, cover, and simmer until potatoes are soft, stirring occasionally, about 20 minutes. Using potato masher, mash some of potatoes in pot. Add browned sausage to sweet potato mixture. Stir in remaining 1 tablespoon oil if you drained sausage oil. Season with salt and pepper.

Tuscan Kale Chips


Condiments:

Gingered Cranberry and Kumquat Relish


Herb-Garlic Butter


3 sticks softened butter, 1/2 cup olive oil, 1/4 cup heavy cream, 5 cloves garlic, 1/3 small onion (optional), 4 sprigs parsley, 10 blades rosemary, 2 pinches dried (3 pinches fresh chopped) thyme. In food processor, beat butter sticks. Then drizzle in olive oil, then cream. Drop in garlic, onion, and herbs until just turning light green and creamy. Can use with steaks, bread, and even potatoes and fish. Later on, use to sauté vegetables, pasta, rice, and main dish foods.

I recently made several cups of vinaigrette and marveled at its versatility. I like a healthy dose of mustard. It keeps in the fridge for several days but use a little faster with fresh herbs added. 

Use for: Fresh veggies like carrots, cucumbers, red peppers, green beans, tomatoes, cabbage. Try making Greek salad with this dressing. You can marinate these. Dynamite at a cookout and easy side dishes when made the evening before. Added pita chips for crunch. Also, try with steamed broccoli, squash, potatoes, corn, asparagus, beets...and, of course, lettuce and spinach!

Classic Vinaigrette Makes almost 7 ounces or 200 ml

Ingredients:

1/4 cup chopped onions optional: 1 clove fresh garlic
2 stems' worth (sprigs) of chopped fresh parsley leaves
1/3 cup vinegar-try using 1/4 cup vinegar plus 3 small spoons smooth spicy brown or Dijon mustard
1/2 cup olive oil
salt and pepper

Directions:
If you are in a bare-bones kitchen, chop onions, garlic and parsley very fine and shake in a container that won't leak out the liquid, like an old mayonnaise, pickle or jelly jar. For best results, mix in blender or insert immersion blender in bowl. Mixture will get thick and creamy. Keep the ratio--yes, with that much oil--and enjoy this delicious classic.

Desserts:

Parfaits? Parfait!

With Jack Frost peeking around the corner, consider the parfaits, fools, and panna cottas to bring fruit flavor without having to forage for winter berries. Serve make-ahead desserts in beautiful glass bowls. Layer with dried fruit, crumbled cookies, cubed cake, or nuts. 

This "fool-proof" parfait recipe includes many inspiring variations.

Banana Pudding is a great dessert since the great citrus is only starting to making its way to markets now. Make sure you toast the vanilla wafers with butter, sugar and cinnamon. Amazing!


Beverages:

Alcohol-Free Fruit Punch

2 cups pomegranate juice, 1 can each apple, orange and pineapple juices concentrate, 1 cup cherry cider, 1/4 cup lime syrup. Dilute with ice, seltzer water.

Wine

These will work with all the sweet, rich and herbal flavors thrown together: Riesling (white), a White Merlot (blush) or White Syrah (blush). My favorite choice is the just-out refreshing fruity red Beaujolais Nouveau, served chilled.


Some friendly advice:

It's dangerous to cook stuffing inside a cooking turkey. Salmonella city!! Cook poultry and stuffing separately then put in stuffing while the turkey rests thirty minutes before serving.

Pace yourself-cook as many things as possible beforehand.

Add a little cranberry sauce to turkey gravy.

If you are serving a meatless meal, consider serving courses instead of many similar dishes together. Like salad, soup, potatoes and vegetables.

If more guests are coming than planned, serving courses with about ten minutes in between will help people feel full with less food.

Here's a list of in-season/readily available foods at their peak for the DC metro area:

Apples
Arugula
Bananas
Belgian Endive
Butternut Squash
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots
Chestnuts
Coconut
Collard Greens
Cranberries
Dates
Grapefruit
Kale
Kiwifruit
Kumquats
Leeks
Onions
Oranges
Parsley
Parsnips
Passion Fruit
Pear
Persimmon
Pomegranate
Pomelo
Potatoes
Radicchio
Red Currants
Rosemary
Sweet Potatoes
Tangerines
Thyme
Turnips
Winter Squash like pumpkin, butternut, acorn

Note: Some fruits like citrus, coconut, pineapple, bananas and dates are not local but are consistently available in major grocery stores to serve as a trade wind for salads, desserts and main dishes.