Food for thought: Easter Feast

Easter/Passover/Spring

Spring, combined with the holidays of Easter & Passover, create unique themes in food. There's a tinge of the hard truths of human nature coupled with fertile rebirth.

I like foods that conjure the Old Testament and the foods/regions mentioned in scripture: lamb, figs, almonds, rosemary, mustard seed, red wine/grapes/raisins, unleavened bread, potatoes, sage, olives and olive oil, dates, and apricots. One gets the idea. Poke around epicurious.com for recipes. I prefer Gourmet's recipes, as they seem to be well-tested to me. BettyCrocker.com tests recipes well too, but they rely more heavily on processed foods in their ingredient lists.

Some ideas:

Meat and Fish
Decadent crusted lamb with honey-apricot relish--recipe follows

Smoked duck with pomegranate-maple syrup

Sauteed rosemary chicken breast with portobello mushrooms and petite peas

Ham with fruit chutney

Firm fish (tilapia) poached, with a lemon zest, dill and green onion sauce


Side Dishes
Grilled asparagus with lemon butter

Bitter/spicy salad greens such as frisee, radicchio, endive, and arugula with a lemon-tahini dressing

Snow peas with tarragon

New potatoes with fresh sage

Petite peas or steamed cauliflower with tarragon-avacado vinaigrette

Fava beans with lemon pepper

Flat bread (pita bread, lavash) with tapenade

Rice steeped in beef broth, lemon and oregano

Caramelized red onions and balsamic vinegar


Desserts
Fig-raisin bread (as in a dessert bread to serve with wine and cheese)

Date-Apricot pie with almond topping

Baklava


Recipe: Apricot & Rosemary Lamb (Betty Crocker)

It is divine! I make this on many special occasions. Notes: Usually, I marinate the leg for 24 hours. I use balsamic vinegar instead of the red wine. I also add about 16 cloves of garlic instead of the 8 listed and crust the lamb with dried rosemary, a couple crushed peppercorns, salt and dried thyme. Sometimes I've added sweet onion to the relish or the marinade. Trimming the fat and adding lots of fresh rosemary really improve the flavor!

5-pound bone-in leg of lamb
8 small cloves garlic, cut lengthwise in half
4 rosemary sprigs, each about 4 inches long, cut into 4 pieces
1 can (15 to 16 ounces) apricot halves in light syrup, drained and syrup reserved
1/2 cup dry red wine or nonalcoholic red wine
1/4 cup olive or vegetable oil
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1. Make 16 small slits, each about 1/2 inch wide and 1 inch deep, over surface of lamb. Insert 1 garlic and 1 rosemary piece in each slit using tip of knife. Place lamb in large resealable food-storage plastic bag or shallow glass or plastic dish.
2. Mix reserved apricot syrup, the wine, oil, 1 tablespoon of the honey and the salt; pour over lamb. Seal bag or cover dish and refrigerate at least 8 hours but no longer than 24 hours, turning lamb occasionally.
3. Heat oven to 325ºF. Remove lamb from marinade; reserve marinade. Place lamb, fat side up, on rack in shallow roasting pan. Insert ovenproof meat thermometer so tip is in thickest part of lamb and does not touch bone or rest in fat.
4. Bake uncovered about 2 hours, brushing once or twice with marinade, until thermometer reads 140°F. Cover lamb loosely with foil and let stand 10 to 15 minutes or until thermometer reads 145°F. (Temperature will continue to rise about 5°, and lamb will be easier to carve.) Reserve 1/4 cup marinade; discard any remaining marinade. Garnish with additional apricot halves and fresh rosemary leaves if desired.
5. Meanwhile, place apricots in food processor or blender. Cover and process until smooth. In 1-quart saucepan, heat apricots, 1/4 cup marinade, remaining 1 tablespoon honey and the chopped rosemary. Heat to boiling. Boil 1 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve sauce with lamb.

Wine pairings: a light, fruity red, such as Beaujolais Nouveau, a Red Zinfandel, or a really dry Rose with a fruity character. A Moscato or Muscat would bring out the honey and grape flavors of a dish. With rich dishes combining green vegetables and cream or butter, try a buttery Chardonnay or a snappy Sancerre.

Food for thought: Cookbooks that have caught my eye

How I do love a good cookbook. I read them like novels. There's the mystery and intrigue of how a dish will ultimately turn out. There's often comedy, when a recipe seems highly inaccurate and untested. Romance takes the form of a recipe that makes you swoon, or a recipe that will make someone else wobbly-kneed. And there's tragedy when you realize that a cookbook didn't live up to your expectations.

There are many food-related books I want to check out or buy for others. Here is my "in-the-inbox-but-not-sure-if-I'll-actually buy-them" list:


In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto by Michael Pollan

I loved his book The Omnivore's Dilemma. I think there's a lot going wrong and right with food these days, and Senor Pollan takes an admirable stab at bringing food industry and industrious issues to the fore. The premise behind this book is to eat food, not a lot, mostly plants. He has a 12-page article "Unhappy Meals" in the NY Times that looks like it's a great synopsis of the book. I think this one's coming home with me.


Crescent City Cooking: Unforgettable Recipes from Susan Spicer's New Orleans by Susan Spicer and Paula Disbrowe

I love sensing I'm in the company of a passionate yet deliberate chef. Passion spurs creativity, while deliberation ensures accuracy. This book seems like it might be psychoanalysis with recipes as a fringe benefit. New Orleans has good food at every turn, just an amazing confluence of food, fun and sense of place. If Susan Spicer's recipes live up to her hype, I might treat myself to this later on. But I'll sit down with it at Borders before I make any rash decisions.


Fast Food My Way by Jacques Pepin and Ben Fink

I was never into Jacques Pepin when my food quest started. It wasn't until I'd watch "Fast Food My Way" on PBS that I sat up and took notice. Pepin fuses southern French/northern Italian cooking with Latin, American and even Scandinavian cooking. He has knife skills that get me misty-eyed. Plus, he actually takes respectable shortcuts without sabotaging flavor. That's not to say I love everything he makes. As he slides anchovies in the blender to make a gray-brown aioli, my stomach churns. But his show was among the best instruction I'd seen on how to teach people to use time and on-hand ingredients to their advantage. I thought I was slick by trying to download recipes from his website, but most of my favorites weren't there. After looking through this at the bookstore, I may buy this and pick one up for a friend who wants to learn how to cook. For someone learning how to cook with very little experience, I'd definitely recommend his DVDs by the same name. One caveat: Pepin uses a lot of gadgets that a budding home cook most likely won't have.


A Love Affair with Southern Cooking: Recipes and Recollections by Jean Anderson

There are a kajillion recipes in this thing. It looks quite comprehensive and like it's from many different parts of the South. That said, I am at once respectful and a little fearful of Southern cooking. However,I think I could cope with this cookbook. Anderson explains some of the "whys", as in the history of colas, foods and name origins like Frogmore Stew. I think the appeal is that the author grew up in the South, yet she was from a Yankee family. This disarms me and piques my curiosity. Plus, I love the idea that many of the recipes were culled from social teas and other "ladies who lunch" settings. Maybe I'll give this to a friend (then borrow it!)


The Whole Foods Allergy Cookbook: Two Hundred Gourmet & Homestyle Recipes for the Food Allergic Family by Cybele Pascal

I try to be aware of allergens and key preferences when I cook. These days, when cooking for people at work, church and other mainstream settings, it's good to steer clear of allergens that can really hamper someone's enjoyment of others' food. I've been meaning to get a book like this, so if I'm ever faced with someone having multiple food allergies, I can make something that is delicious in its own merit instead of being something like a "no-cheese" cheesecake or "tastes like the real thing." I think that position stems from trying to make good vegetarian meals that didn't just substitute all the things people weren't trying to eat anyway, like meat, cheese, milk, eggs, etc. This cookbook looks like it addresses food allergies with some dignity.


Happy cooking!

Food for thought: Thanksgiving--If you're going to do it, do it right!

I go to the grocery store just for fun. I poke plums, compare unit prices and try samples. The grocery store is also great for people watching, namely the wild-eyed people preparing their first or most important Thanksgiving meal.

So, if you are one of those people, let me shake some sense into you. Read these tips, and plan your victory in the kitchen. I usually give recipes, but you may have already clipped, borrowed or Googled recipes. What have you planned?

1. Now is not the time to experiment.
I'm talking to people who have not made a certain recipe before and want to get all Julia Child when dinner's ready in 0400 hours. What if someone has a food allergy? Find a different recipe. If it's an omnivore to herbivore thing, definitely find a different recipe. Last resort, buy something like egg replacer. Food is chemistry, and sometimes ingredients are there for taste and chemistry function. Click on the "Food for thought" title to get a list of substitutions. I also incuded the list at the bottom. By the way, it's 1/4 tsp. baking soda and an acid agent like lemon juice or buttermilk for 1 tsp. baking powder.

2. Observe times and measurements. Again, now's not the time to play. There are about 360 other days when you can do that. If you know your oven is a little cold or hot, try to check often WITHOUT OPENING THE OVEN. That will slow things down. No light? Flashlight! And set a timer. Every 30 minutes after a few hours for big meats; after the first 20 minutes for baked goods except for cookies--or the first sign of smoke? On the other hand, avoid doing tasks like gossiping in another room, or showering when you can't rush back to fix a slight burning smell.

3. If something burns: if it is meat, look at the layer underneath. You may have to do some peeling. If it is just the top layer, try rinsing to get all the burnt liquid off. Another technique (I just did this last week) is to add a layer of dressing or marinade and blackened spices. Keep blackening spices around, and make lemonade out of those lemons.

4. Use nonstick pans when possible for starches like rice, beans, potatoes and stuffing. This will greatly reduce a bad burn. Plus, be extra vigilant, since it is hard to remove the burnt taste from these items. If you are a meat eater, have some smoked meat on hand to help disguise this-think bacos or bacon bits.

5. For burnt breads, try using a microplane, a zester, or a serrated knife to rescue burnt items. A burnt chocolate cake? I boldly called it mocha and nobody knew. I was told it was the best mocha cake they'd had.

6. Plan your meal by working backwards. Look at the time all the recipes take, which ones can be made ahead, and which ones you can do some steps for early and some steps for later. Plus, plan ahead for a life line: is there someone you can call to go to the store for you? Is there a 24-hour store, like some Shoppers or a Harris Teeter, or even a CVS, where you can go at midnight and stock up? And in terms of life lines, try to line up a couple people who have an attention span to stir while you shower, give directions and taste food for flavor balance.

7. Try not to accidentally kill people. If you are trying to do harm, that's on you. But the last thing you want is a nickname like "Shrimp salad Sally", and everyone starts simulating puking when you walk by. Wash vegetables with one part vinegar (1/4 cup) and 3 parts water (3/4 cup). This will take the waxes, bacteria and pesticides off. Rinse well to get vinegar taste out. Keep cold foods cold--40 degrees or under, and keep hot foods hot--over 135. If you are traveling over two hours--include the time it's sitting on the table without being reheated or cooled, make plans to bring a cooler or insulated bags. Even wrapping things in foil first can help. Please avoid doing the slick "I'll cook the turkey halfway at home, then cook it for two more hours at Mom's. Uh-uh. All or nothing. Juices should run clear for meats, poultry and fish. Only microwaving meats--bad for taste and not a guarantee things are cooked. Unless your family is comprised of Swiss watchmakers, they should be OK with things running a little late. Think of it as saving lives.

8. When making vegetarian meals, do it the way nature intended
These days, people seem to eat fewer things than ever, due to a variety of reasons. Avoid suspending belief when making food. "It tastes just like such-and-such" is a clear giveaway that the recipe should be reconsidered. Avoid buying everything that tastes like chicken, beef, sausage, tuna, cheese, and turkey. Perhaps that is not most pleasing to your guest (or even to you!) Try looking at Mediterranean-Greek and Italian- or Asian-Indian cuisine that doesn't rely on meat. Take stuffing. Try using chestnuts, mushrooms or nuts instead of meat. If you have an insufferably picky person, or someone you just don't know well of legendary finickiness, try to make that person's favorite dish. It sure beats trying to find just the right thing. If it's a hamburger, so what. Use the time you've saved trying to figure someone out by sleeping!

9. Use flavorful ingredients and methods
Fresh basil
fresh sage
fresh flat-leaf parsley
Fresh rosemary

Unsalted butter
Nut oils
Olive oil
Nut butter
Tahini

Real Parmigiano-Reggiano-nothing in a can.

Roast vegetables whenever possible. Use fresh green beans, unless you are trying to cook them until they are grey. If you hate cutting onions and are going to cook them, buy frozen. Avoid skimping on them.

Meats that aren't "enhanced", then frozen. Pork chops especially come out drier. If you are going to freeze, then make, use "natural".

Brine meats (with the exception of kosher meats, which are already brined). Soak meat for 6-8 hours in a water-salt-spice solution for maximum flavor. Just look this up, and you will find plenty of into. I'd say 6 tablespoons salt/gallon water. Kosher salt is best.

Cook your ham in an oven bag. Remove when it's 10 minutes away from being done. Make your own glaze with preserves heated until they're liquid-cherry, peach, pineapple or apple butter-- and combine pan drippings. Cook for 20 minutes.

Separate the skin from the meat in poultry. Put your hand in either side of the breast while leaving the middle intact. put herb butter or trans-fat-free margarine in the space between skin and meat; move hand around to distribute. For crisp skin, cook at 450 degrees for fifteen minutes AT THE BEGINNING. Then, turn heat down to regular levels.

Make your own salad dressings ahead of time, if possible.

Green bean casserole
Make your own mushroom sauce instead of cream of mushroom soup. Cook mushrooms for 20 minutes with a little salt, or until the mushrooms are dry. Over low heat, add cream cheese-Neufchatel is good for those cutting fat corners. Buy 8 oz; use half and adjust to desired creaminess. Add 1/2 MSG-free bouillon cube and slowly add water. Add a few French fried onions to provide thickening. Add pepper and thyme to taste, and cook 5 more minutes on very low heat.

10. If there are people who have many different preferences like artery busters next to twig eaters, make a dessert and toppings bar where people can help themselves. Have cut fresh fruit, pies, nuts, honey, granola, chocolate sauce, ice cream, and cakes.

Enjoy and make sure someone else cleans up! HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

FOOD SUBSTITUTIONS

• 1 teaspoon baking powder = ¼ teaspoon baking soda plus ½ cup buttermilk or ¼ teaspoon baking soda plus 5/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

• 1 cup sifted cake flour = 7/8 cup sifted all-purpose flour or 1 cup all-purpose flour minus 1-2 tablespoons

• 1 cup self-rising flour = 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour plus 1½ teaspoons baking powder and ½ teaspoon salt

• 1 cup all-purpose flour = 1 cup whole wheat flour

• 1 cup honey = 1 to 1¼ cups sugar plus ¼ cup liquid

• 2 large eggs = 3 small eggs

• 1 medium egg = 2 egg yolks plus 1 tablespoon water (for baking)

• 1 medium egg = 2 egg yolks (in custards or cream fillings)

• 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate = 1 square or 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder plus 1 tablespoon butter or margarine

• 6 squares or 6 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted = 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips, melted

• 1 tablespoon cornstarch (as thickening) = 2 tablespoons flour or 2 teaspoons quick tapioca or 2 egg yolks

• 1 teaspoon lemon juice = ½ teaspoon vinegar

• 1 tablespoon fresh herbs = ½ to 1 teaspoon dried herbs

• 1 small garlic clove = 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder

• 1 pound fresh mushrooms = 3 ounces dried or 6 ounces canned

• 1 cup whipping cream, whipped = 2 cups thawed whipped topping

• 1 cup whipping cream as liquid = 1/3 cup melted butter plus ¾ cup milk

• 1 cup light cream = 3 tablespoons melted butter plus ¾ cup milk

• 1 cup ricotta cheese = 1 cup cottage cheese, liquid drained

• 1 cup buttermilk = 1 cup plain yogurt, stirred, or 1 tablespoon lemon juice stirred into milk to make 1 cup; let stand 5 minutes to make soured milk for baking only (never use sour milk that's been in the fridge too long; it's actually spoiled)

• 1 cup whole milk = 2 teaspoons melted butter plus 1 cup fat-free milk (or water) or equal parts evaporated milk and water or 1 cup nonfat dry milk plus 2 teaspoons melted butter

• 1 cup sour cream = 3 tablespoons melted butter stirred into 7/8 cup buttermilk, soured milk or plain yogurt

• 1 cup sour cream = 1 cup plain yogurt (but it will taste less rich from the missing fat)

• Pecans = walnuts, almonds or hazelnuts

• Chunky peanut butter = creamy peanut butter (or grind roasted peanuts in a blender with a little peanut oil)

• 1 cup bread crumbs = ¾ cup cracker crumbs

• 1 cup butter = 1 cup margarine or 7/8 cup vegetable oil or 7/8 cup butter-flavored shortening

• 1 pound lard = 2 cups shortening

• 1 cup sugar (in baking bread) = 1 cup honey plus a pinch of baking soda

• 1 cup sugar (in baking) = 7/8 cup honey plus a pinch of baking soda

• 1 cup sugar (in main dishes) = ¾ cup honey

• 1 cup brown sugar = 1 cup white sugar plus 2 tablespoons molasses

• 1 cup molasses (in baking) = 1 cup sugar (omit baking soda; use baking powder)

• ½ cup dry red wine or white wine = 2 tablespoons sherry or port

• ¾ cup maple syrup = ¾ cup maple-flavored syrup, corn syrup or 1 cup sugar and increase liquid in recipe by 3 tablespoons

• 1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice = ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon ginger, ½ teaspoon cinnamon

• 1 pound tomatoes = 3 medium or ¾ cup sauce (6 ounces) or ¼ cup paste (2 ounces)

• 8 ounces tomato sauce = 2/3 cup water plus 1/3 cup tomato paste

• 3 cups tomato juice = 2½ cups water plus 6 ounces tomato paste plus ¾ teaspoon salt, dash of sugar

• 1 large marshmallow = 10 mini (dust off cornstarch from their surfaces or it might overload a recipe)

• 1 cup granulated sugar = 1¾ cups powdered sugar for uses other than baking

• ¼ teaspoon powdered ginger = 1 teaspoon chopped fresh or 2 teaspoon minced crystallized

• 1 head fresh dill = 2 teaspoons dill seed

• 1 tablespoon grated fresh horseradish = 2 tablespoons bottled

• 1 teaspoon lemon juice = ½ teaspoon vinegar

• 1 teaspoon dry mustard = 1 tablespoon prepared mustard or ½ teaspoon mustard seeds

• 1 /4 cup rum = 1 teaspoon rum extract plus liquid to make ¼ cup

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract = 1 inch vanilla bean, split and simmered in liquid of recipe

• 1 cup wine = 13 tablespoons water, 3 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 tablespoon sugar or a little less than 1 cup apple juice plus lemon juice

• 1 cup dry bread crumbs = 3 to 4 slices bread, torn and processed

• 1 cup sweetened condensed milk = 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons dry milk powder plus ½ cup warm water plus ¾ cup sugar and dissolve

• ½ teaspoon cream of tartar = 1½ teaspoons lemon juice or vinegar

• 1 tablespoon maple sugar = 1 tablespoon granulated sugar plus a dash of maple extract

Food for thought--All for fall-harvest recipes

I love fall! Vivid leaves falling, hiking, visiting orchards, hayrides, bonfires and Hallowe'en. Autumn celebrates the harvest and changes. I especially love autumnal food and celebrating the bounty. Enjoy these recipes! Also, click on the "Food for thought" title or here for a yummy seasonal salmon recipe.
Menu
Farfalle with Roasted Butternut Cream Sauce
Roasted Beet Salad, Sauteed Beet Tops and Bleu cheese with Orange Dressing
Brown Butter Chicken with Parsley and Garlic
Jewish Apple Cake

Wine: 2005 Riesling (next time, Pinot Grigio or Sancerre to cut the richness)

Farfalle with Roasted Butternut Cream Sauce
Serves 6

1 1/2 pounds farfalle, or bow-tie pasta. Cook according to package directions.

2 small or one large winter squash (used butternut), seeded and halved
1/2 stick butter
10 leaves fresh sage, chopped
5 stems parsley, minced
Dash nutmeg, optional
1/2 small onion or 1 shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
3 Tbsp flour
1 bouillon cube or 1/2 tsp. salt
1 pint half-and-half
1/3 cup pecans
1/4 C grated parmesan

Roast seeded and halved squash, face down on cookie sheet or glass pans, in 400 oven for 40 minutes, until tender and "scoopable" from their skins. Allow to cool, then scoop into bowl. Mash if necessary until smooth. You will need at least 1 1/2 cups. Set aside.

In a skillet over med-high heat, melt butter. When bubbly, add fresh sage and parsley. When the leaves have darkened, add onion and optional nutmeg. Cook and stir until onion starts becoming translucent and glossy. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add flour, and stir often until flour turns a very light brown. Reduce heat to medium. Add salt or bouillon.

Over medium heat, add milk slowly, stirring often, until you have used about half. Add squash and stir and smush to even out texture. Add the rest of cream while stirring. Add pecans. Turn off heat. Then add cheese, stirring until combined. The sauce will be quite thick and will sit on top of pasta. I prefer to toss the sauce and pasta together, with a little extra sauce on top.


Roasted Beet Salad, Sauteed Beet Tops and Bleu cheese with Orange Dressing
Serves 8-10
Roast 5 or 6 peeled beets wrapped in foil, with squash or by themselves--400 for 40 minutes in the oven should be enough.
Slice in disks or in small wedges.

Reserve beet tops. Rinse well 2 times under running water. Discard red stems; save the leaves. Sautee with a dash butter or olive oil and a dash of salt and pepper until wilted. Remove from pan and put in serving bowl. If you don't have the beet tops, use kale, spinach or mustard greens.

Throw in a few apple pieces and pecans from the other recipes into the bowl. Thinly slice some leftover onion from the squash into the bowl-about 20 small pieces.

Dressing- Mix 1/2 C orange juice, 1/4 c olive oil, dash vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, parsley and remaining onion in food processor. Mix until smooth. Pour over salad. Top or toss in crumbled bleu cheese, maybe 3 oz total.

Poulet a la grenouille-Chicken, frog-leg style
Don't get freaked out--it's just chicken sauteed in butter with parsley and garlic. I saw this on Jacques Pepin's Fast Food My Way a few years back. I think I made it that same day!

Really simple!
Chop skinless chicken breasts into cubes. Or, leave them whole or in large strips for a more formal presentation.

Coat them with flour and pepper, but do not add salt yet.

Sauté in melted butter. Or, you can mix butter and olive oil about 50/50. After they’ve lightly browned, add salt, garlic and chopped parsley to taste. Cook about 2 minutes longer.

If you are using rather large pieces, finish them off in the oven, so as not to have a burnt crust and an undercooked inside.


Jewish apple cake

named for its place on the table during Rosh Hashanah.I just made this on Sat. and have included my modifications. This is not a very sweet cake, as written. It tastes like the Apple Cake at Whole Foods, albeit with a better butter flavor! Feel free to use sweeter apples and/or increase the sugar by 1/4 to 1/3 cup for a more pronounced sugary taste, and to mirror the original recipe.

5 apples, peeled and diced (used Granny Smith)
1/4 tsp. cinnamon, plus another 1/4 tsp. reserved
1/3 c sugar
----------

3 C unbleached flour
2 C sugar
3 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt

2 sticks butter, melted and cooled--the original recipe calls for 1 C. vegetable oil
1/2 C chunky applesauce (I added this)
4 eggs
1/4 C orange juice concentrate--(original recipe calls for 7 Tbsp OJ)
2 tsp. vanilla

Directions:
Prepare apples. Add cinnamon and sugar. Toss & set aside.

Set oven to 350. Grease and flour two 9-inch cake pans or one bundt pan-- will take a longer baking time.

Add dry ingredients. Remember to add the extra 1/4 tsp. cinnamon. Mix to combine.

In a separate bowl, mix the wet ingredients.

Fold the wet ingredients into the dry. When well combined, gently fold in the apples.

Pour into pans or pan. Using shallow pans will take about 50 minutes while the bundt pan will take 1 hr. 45 minutes. I used 2 cake pans. You may have to switch cake between racks for even baking if cake is not in center of oven. Cake will be done when top is a deep golden brown and the buttery smell drives you near the point of insanity.

Allow to cool--warm to the touch is fine--before cutting.

It's great by itself. It also goes well with fruit compote, ice cream and creme fraiche.

Try it with Riesling, dessert wine or sparkling apple cider...or even some apple brandy.


THANKSGIVING PREVIEW~
Here's a recipe for the best turkey I ever made: Turkey with Sage Butter. It was just a few of us at a get-together, so I just used a 2- or 3-pound breast. I cut and rolled them into individual cutlets, like Chicken Kiev, but I didn't bread it. Turkey and butter may sound like they'd make strange bedfellows, yet it turned out very well and was not too hard. Brine the turkey. This means soaking it in a salt-seasoning-water solution for a few hours or, even better, overnight. Then let the meat dry a little on the surface. Prepare as usual. The original recipe calls for bacon. I didn't use any bacon, and it was still great.

Food for thought: No Love Lost--Noshing in Nashville

Dear food diary,

I and 2800 others recently went to Nashville for Blacks in Government. I ate my way through that town. There were so many finds, and all the meals were good. I should admit to two things: I wasn't by myself, and we did some reconnaissance before we arrived. We also had a rental car at our disposal, the better to taste Nashville's far-flung delights.

Loveless Cafe on Highway 100 is a country girl's hog heaven. Literally, as their Ham's 'n' Jams store revealed. We were just two, and hongry as I don't know what. So naturally, we wanted the all-you-can-eat family-style dinner, with two meats and three sides for under $14 apiece. Trouble is, you need four people to be a "family." Guess you don't have to know each other. 'Cause when the hostess wouldn't seat just the two of us for the family-style meal, we plucked Erin and Willie from the waiting area to share our table. I said all that to say the food is so good, absolute strangers will break bread with you if it means they can stuff their faces with some good country cooking.

Although we'd never met the other half, the four of us reached quick consensus on fried chicken-thin coated and fried in peanut oil; the best pulled pork (and hoe cakes) I've ever tasted; creamy macaroni & cheese; fried okra; and hash brown casserole, by far one of the best sides offered at a restaurant. Ever.

The biscuits were hot and tasty, accompanied with all the strawberry, blackberry and coveted peach preserves you can eat. If that alone didn't make us swoon, they had drinks included. Not just any old drinks, mind you. We're talking Dr. Pepper, sweet tea, and lemonade. We switched our drink orders so much, the waitress double-checked that she wasn't losing her mind on the refills. It was all just so good. Soooo goood.

So, we came back three days later with more friends--friends we knew beforehand, that is. We ordered pork chops with candied sweet potatoes and more mac 'n' cheese; smoked turkeytopped with cranberry bbq sauce sided with amazing creamed corn; and eggs, country ham and pancakes-Yep, breakfast and dinner all day long, folks. Such sweet memories had to be preserved. What better souvenir than peach preserves and biscuits? For all the low country gourmands out there, try your darndest to make it to Loveless Cafe next time you're in Nashville.

We also had a pretty good experience, albeit more highbrow, at Sunset Grill. The highlight, for me, anyway, of Sunset Grill was the desserts. Challah french toast (holla!), carrot cake with cream cheese frosting ice cream--you read it right the first time--, and an amazing bread pudding with habanero pepper, caramel sauce and strawberries closed out our delicious meal. A note about that bread pudding: it was sweet, rich and hot, as in pepper-hot. It was brilliant, since you just tasted the heat of the pepper, but not the earthy pepper flavor. I would love to see the recipe for that one.

We also stopped by Caney Fork's Fish House. I wasn't crazy about their food, but their corn fritters were like a corn bread and funnel cake love child, dusted with powdered sugar. The bomb! Plus, they came to the table in a replenished bread basket. I practically jettisoned my hush puppies off the table, so as not to crowd out these precious fritters. I can imagine them with cream-and-sugared coffee for breakfast. Dang. It's not breakfast.

What else? Oh, I tried fried pickles for the first time. They were so boldly wrong on so many levels that I quite respected them. We ate these at BB King's bar, along with some great cocktails. I recommend the Lucille.

I won't even get into Gaylord Opryland's myriad restaurants and foodways. Suffice it to say that the long, long walks to my hotel rooms mitigated my gelato, burger, and panini splurges.

Past Perfect off Third St. had great bison burgers, part of its eclectic, healthful and tasty menu. Plus, the Sunday Karaoke was so much fun. It was American Idol up in there. Gotta love $2.50 Blue Moon draft.

Pictures coming soon...There are some glorious food porn pictures, mostly of our meals at Loveless Cafe.

Some Loveless Cafe recipes:

Hash Brown Casserole

• 4 pounds shredded hash brown potatoes
• 8 ounces diced onion
• 8 ounces shredded cheddar cheese
• 8 ounces shredded American cheese
• 1 20-ounce can Campbell’s Cream of Chicken soup
• 16 ounces sour cream
• Salt and pepper to taste

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Combine all ingredients in a large bowl and stir together well. Spoon into a greased 9-by-13-inch baking dish and spread evenly. Bake for 40 minutes or until top is golden brown and bubbly. Serves 8 to 10.

Southern Pecan Pie

• 3 eggs
• 3/4 cup granulated sugar
• 1/4 cup brown sugar
• 1 cup corn syrup
• 2 tablespoons unsalted butter
• 1 and 1/2 teaspoons vanilla extract
• 1 and 1/4 cups pecans
• 1 10-inch unbaked pie crust

Preheat oven to 350 degrees. Beat eggs slightly to combine yolks and whites. Add corn syrup and sugars. Melt butter and add to the egg and sugar mixture. Stir in vanilla and pecans until well blended. Carefully pour into pie crust, being careful not to overfill. Bake for 50 minutes or until set. If the edges of the crust begin to brown too early, cover the edges with aluminum foil. Cool before serving.

Food for thought: Do it yourself--Cake walk & other goodies

Some may think I never use a recipe. Actually, they are quite useful, but memorizing ratios works better for me long-term. I also alter them so much that they don't look like a recipe anymore!

Here's my standard cake ratio/recipe:

Cake=
Wet stuff:

• 3/4 -1C. liquid & reduce when using moist fruit
  
• 3+ eggs,
  
• 1-1.5 cups oil,
  
• 1 -2 tsp. flavoring, such as extract
  

+
Dry stuff:

• 1-2 cups sugar,
  
• 3-3 1/2 cups flour,
  
• 1-1/2 tsp. baking powder (or use 1 tsp. baking soda),
  
• 1 tsp. salt.
  

Mix wet, then dry, then wet into dry. Bake at 350 for 45+minutes (for Bundt pan)

Hummingbird cake and cupcakes
This is the recipe my auntie used, rest her soul. Ingredients found in a Tropical blizzard from Dairy Queen--bananas, pineapple and pecans--must have been the inspiration for this amazing and simple cake with cream cheese frosting. Try adding a teaspoon of molasses in the frosting to add a caramel flavor.

Variation: Banana cake with chocolate chips and pecans

Substitute crushed pineapple for 2/3 bag chocolate chips.

Butternut squash lasagne. This is SOO good! I used chopped fresh sage and substituted pecans for hazelnuts. I think you could use pumpkin or most other starchy, winter squashes in a pinch.

Gingersnap cheesecake sandwiches
I made up this recipe while roaming Trader Joe's. Get the highest-quality gingersnaps you can find. I like TJ's Organic Gingersnap Cookies. They definitely have a "snap" and contain butter.

For 50 little sandwiches. In my experience, this fed only about 15! Make the night before, so cookies will soften. Keeps for 2 days.

4 oz. crushed pineapple, drained
4 oz. mango chunks, fresh or thawed from frozen, diced in food processor
2/3 cup sugar
1 tsp. vanilla for fruit
1 tsp. vanilla for cream cheese
2 packs TJ's Organic Gingersnap Cookies (yellow & blue label) for 100 cookies total
2 packages 8 oz. cream cheese blocks

Make a chutney with fruit and sugar in a small saucepan for 15 minutes. It should thicken and the fruit should taste sweet, but less sweet than jelly. Remove from stove to cool down to room temperature. Add vanilla before cooling.

Beat cream cheese in a food processor to soften it. Add cooled fruit and vanilla. Scrape side to get an even mixture, and pulse just enough to incorporate ingredients.

On a tray or a large plastic storage container, line up gingersnaps. Spread cream cheese thickly on a gingersnap, then cover it with another gingersnap. You may have to quickly turn it like you're separating an Oreo to get uniform cream cheese. Cover and refrigerate overnight. Gingersnaps will soften over time from the moisture from the cream cheese. Promptly give as many away as possible, lest you eat 100 gingersnaps and 1 pound of cream cheese in 1 or 2 sittings.


Larb gai salad, adapted from Typhoon Restaurant, Portland, Oregon-- recipe found on Epicurious.com

2/3 cup fresh lime juice
1/3 cup fish sauce (nam pla*) Note: I used 2 tsp. sesame oil
1 tablespoon sugar Note: omitted. See below
2 teaspoons Thai roasted chili paste* in oil or chili-garlic sauce* Note: I used 2 tbsp.sweet chili sauce

3/4 cup canned low-salt chicken broth Used 1 bouillon cube + 3/4 C water
1 1/2 pounds ground chicken Note: used same amount of ground turkey
1 cup thinly sliced green onions
3/4 cup thinly sliced shallots
3 tablespoons minced fresh lemongrass*
1 tablespoon thinly sliced Thai chilies* or Serrano chilies Note: omitted
1/2 cup chopped fresh cilantro leaves Note: substituted parsley
1/3 cup chopped fresh mint leaves Note: used 1/2 cup torn leaves

2 small heads Boston lettuce, separated into leaves Note: used about 2 oz. spinach and 1lb. bag cole slaw mix

Note: added fried vermicelli and roasted almond slivers for crunch.

*Available at Asian markets and some supermarkets nationwide.

Preparation:
Whisk first 4 ingredients in medium bowl to blend; reserve sauce.

Bring broth to simmer in heavy large skillet over medium heat. Add chicken. Simmer until cooked through, breaking up meat with spoon, about 8 minutes. Add green onions and next 3 ingredients. Stir until vegetables are tender and most of liquid has evaporated, about 4 minutes. Remove from heat. Stir in sauce, cilantro and mint. Season with salt and pepper.

Spoon into lettuce leaves; serve.

More recipes coming! Bonne cuisine!

Food for thought: Gourmet alchemy 101: Costco shortcuts

GOURMET ALCHEMY
So, I've finally joined the ranks and got a Costco membership. Cheap grape tomatoes! Whole cows for $20! An orchard of berries for $6! Then, a funny thing happened: I started identifying all sorts of food I'd had at parties that came straight from the shelves of Costco.

I thought about minor changes and improvements to make food less commonplace.

Ingredient(s) from Costco:

Can be assembled earlier in the day:
Olive tapenade
deli meats such as salami, turkey ham, roasted turkey
mozzarella or Monterey jack cheese, sliced
croissants or loaf bread, sliced

New creation: Mufuletta Sandwich for lunch or informal dinner
Bake at 400 degrees for 10 minutes


Can be assembled the night before (don't want the scallops to go bad!)
5 lbs (or whatever ridiculous amount is being sold) bacon
Bay scallops

Extra ingredient: black pepper or garam masala for the adventuresome

New creation: Bacon-wrapped scallops hors d'oeuvre

Sprinkle black pepper or masala on scallops in a bowl, then wrap in bacon that has been cut in 3 pieces. Secure with a toothpick. Bake at 375 for 15 minutes, or until bacon is crispy, but still flexible & not breaking. There should be plenty of drippings in the pan. Transfer to plate lined with paper towel. Serve warm.



Ingredients:
Whipping cream
Half-and-half
Honey
Bourbon vanilla from Madagascar

Extra ingredients: 1/2 teaspoon Sea salt; 1 oz. water

New creation: Premium honey-vanilla ice cream

Mix 1/4 honey with salt and water until honey and salt are dissolved. Mixture should be warm, not hot, and should take less than 4 minutes. Cool mixture until room temperature, then cool in fridge or freezer.

Mix 1 cup whipping cream and 1 1/4 cups half-and half with honey mixture. Add 2 teaspoons vanilla.

Blend in ice cream maker according to manufacturer's directions. Chill 3 hours.

Ingredients from Costco:
Chocolate chips
Whipping cream
Honey
Madeleines (little tea cakes) or brownie bites
Fresh berries

Ingredients from home:
2 oz. liqueur, optional
1 teaspoon vanilla or orange or almond extract, optional

New creation: Chocolate fondue station

In a glass bowl, melt chocolate chips in microwave at 50% power for a couple minutes (depends on amount of chips and wattage of microwave), until chocolate chips are gooey and glistening. Slowly add cream, stir well, and return to microwave. Microwave 1 more minute at 70% power. Stir vigorously until all chips are melted and sauce is a thick liquid. Add spice, liqueur or extract; stir again until flavorings are blended.

Serve in bowl on a platter arranged with fruit and cakes. Or, arrange fruit and cakes on a tiered stand and serve fondue in a bowl beside stand.


Ingredients from Costco:
Grape tomatoes, washed
Marinated fresh mozzarella balls, drained of most of oil (but try and retain seasonings)

Optional ingredients:
Fresh basil
Fresh or dried oregano
Sea salt
Finely minced red onion or shallot or scallions

New creation: Insalata caprese in 5 minutes!

In a large bowl, mix drained mozzarella and grape tomatoes. Add optional ingredients to taste. Serves 8-10

Variation: Caprese "panini"
Load tomatoes and mozzarella with a little oil and salt* in French bread. Press down hard, then quickly wrap in foil. Bake in 400-degree oven for 12 minutes, until cheese is melted.
*Add cooked chicken, sardines, and/or a sliced hard-boiled egg if you want something more substantial.