Food for thought: Classic foods and winterizing

WINTERIZE ME!
Well, Jack Frost is definitely nipping on our noses! It's winter, and for me that means not only eating heartier foods but avoiding lifeless fruits and veggies ant the market. Relying more on dried fruits, seeds or nuts, in-season foods and even canned and frozen foods will help avoid a winter rut.

Here's a list of in-season/readily available foods at their peak for the DC metro area:
Apples
Arugula
Bananas
Belgian Endive
Butternut Squash
Brussels Sprouts
Carrots
Chestnuts
Coconut
Collard Greens
Cranberries
Dates
Grapefruit
Kale
Kiwifruit
Kumquats
Leeks
Onions
Oranges
Parsley
Parsnips
Passion Fruit
Pear
Persimmon
Pomegranate
Pomelo
Potatoes
Radicchio
Red Currants
Rosemary
Sweet Potatoes
Tangerines
Thyme
Turnips
Winter Squash like pumpkin, butternut, acorn

Note: Some fruits like citrus, coconut, pineapple, bananas and dates are not local but are consistently available can serve as a trade wind for salads, desserts and main dishes.

Do Mediterranean tapas seem out of place with snow on the ground? Ring in the new year with entrées à la Russe: Try Zasuki, Russian and Georgian starters Zasuki ideas from The Splendid Table.

A LOVELY WINTER BRUNCH OR LUNCH
Fried chick peas seem to be the new "thing", so save some money and do these at home!

* 2 tablespoons (1/4 stick) butter
* 6 tablespoons olive oil
* 4 garlic cloves, minced
* 2 15 1/2-ounce cans garbanzo beans (chickpeas), well drained
* Optional: Cumin, smoked paprika, sea salt, cayenne pepper, sumac (or lemon pepper), toasted sesame seeds

Melt butter with olive oil in another large pot over high heat. Add garlic and stir 30 seconds. Add garbanzo beans and sauté until garbanzo beans begin to color and pop, about 8 minutes. Toss with spices.

Here is a recipe using fried chick peas.


Savory Cheesecake with Onions Confit

It dawned on me recently that I love the taste and texture of a good homemade cheesecake but not the sweetness. This cheesecake is terrific on a brunch menu, and everything can be done ahead. Next time, thinking of adding roasted red pepper & tomatoes coulis for a "trompe-la-langue" effect.

Chèvre Cheesecake

* 1 cup cracker crumbs or crushed pretzels (my favorite)
* 1/4 cup butter, melted
* 3 pkg. (250 g each) cream cheese, softened
* 1 lb. (just under 500 g) soft fresh goat cheese
* 1 cup sour cream
* 4 eggs

Instructions
Preheat oven to 325°F if using a silver 9-inch springform pan (or to 300°F if using a dark nonstick 9-inch springform pan). Mix crumbs and butter; press firmly onto bottom of pan. Bake 10 min.
Beat cream cheese and goat cheese in large bowl with electric mixer on medium speed until well blended. Add sour cream; mix well. Add eggs, one at a time, mixing on low speed after each addition just until blended. Pour over crust.
Bake 1 hour 10 min. or until center is almost set. Run knife or metal spatula around rim of pan to loosen cake; cool before removing rim of pan. Refrigerate 4 hours or overnight. Store leftover cheesecake in refrigerator.

Onion Confit (also known as caramelized onions) Try this with filet mignon!


* 1 pound sweet or red onions (about 3 medium)
* 1 teaspoon olive oil
* 4 tablespoons balsamic vinegar

Halve onions and cut each half lengthwise into 6 wedges or slice using slicer blade attachment in food processor. In a 2-quart heavy saucepan heat oil over moderately high heat until hot but not smoking and sauté onions, stirring, until edges are golden brown, about 2 minutes. Stir in balsamic vinegar and simmer, covered, until onions are tender, about 20 minutes. Remove lid and simmer, stirring occasionally, until liquid is slightly thickened and syrupy, about 10 minutes more.

Here's a variation with cranberries and dried apricot to try with turkey, duck (add some orange zest) or a toasted brie sandwich. Recommend reducing the vinegar to 1/4 cup.

Raw tomatoes' glory days are gone until next summer. In its place, here is great Autumn/Winter salad. Check out the web page for additional menu ideas.

Arugula Salad with Pomegranate and Toasted Pecans
* 1 1/2 teaspoons red wine vinegar
* 1 tablespoon plus 1 1/2 teaspoons aged balsamic vinegar
* 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
* 1/8 freshly ground pepper
* 6 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
* 2 medium bunches arugula, rinsed well and thick stems removed
* 1/3 cup pecans, toasted and roughly chopped
* 1/2 cup pomegranate seeds, from 1 medium pomegranate

In medium nonreactive bowl, whisk together vinegars, salt, and pepper. Gradually drizzle in olive oil, whisking until emulsified. Toss arugula with just enough vinaigrette to coat. Sprinkle with pecans and pomegranate seeds and serve.


This crêpe recipe is perfect. I used a 12-inch cast iron skillet both times I've made these. I left out the cognac and added a little extra milk. Make sure you have no lumps; a key factor is having all ingredients at room temperature so the butter doesn't clump. And do sift the dry ingredients! Raw sugar (with large crystals) will not work in this recipe. Heavenly with Nutella!


Basic Crepes with Cognac House & Garden | December 1959

by James A. Beard
Yield: About 12 small or 8 large sweet crêpes
ingredients
7/8 cup flour
1/4 cup sugar
1/8 teaspoon salt
3 eggs
1 teaspoon grated lemon rind (or a little grated vanilla bean)
2 tablespoons cognac
2 tablespoons melted butter
1 1/2 cups milk
preparation

For this basic crêpe recipe, sift flour, sugar, and salt. Add eggs, one at a time, and mix until no lumps remain (you may use an electric mixer at slow speed). Mix in lemon rind or vanilla, cognac, and melted butter. Slowly add milk and mix until batter is consistency of thin cream. Let it stand an hour or two before making crêpes.

Heat a crêpe pan (either 6-inch or 10-inch, according to desired size of crêpes) and rub it with butter. (It should sizzle on touching pan) For each crêpe, pour a little batter into the pan, tilting about to let it run, covering the bottom in a fairly thin layer. When lightly browned on the bottom, turn carefully with spatula. Pat turned crêpe flat with fingers and brown other side. As each crêpe is cooked, remove it to a hot platter and keep warm. Re-butter pan as needed.


Photo by: Romulo Yanes

Food for thought: Let's Jam! And chutntey!

As they say, I have champagne tastes on a beer wallet. I do, on occasion crack and buy those $4 or $5 gourmet jams to slather on a toasted croissant or even to blend with butter for chicken, turkey, pork, fish, shrimp and lamb.

But if I want chutney, that's where I draw the line. My cheap gene kicks in and I turn my head away from store-bought chutney. I make it myself, always. I also make jams, preserves with leftover fruit or sweet vegetables that I need to use or if I want a special experience for a meal.


I use a food processor, but when some things are really ripe, you can mash with a fork or chop. For me, the chunkier the better. I make something with a consistency between jam and preserves-some pureed and mashed fruit combined with chunks (see definitions below.)I never make jelly, so I don't have tips to make crystalline concoctions. I tend to make my spreads in a small saucepan and store them in the refrigerator in jars run through the dishwasher for short-term use. I make these because I'm capricious and cheap, not to use large batches to put on a shelf.

As for jelling--making sure they are wiggly, not syrupy--lemon juice and applesauce are my jelling agents. They contain pectin, the jelling agent. I have pectin but have never needed to use it thus far.


RECIPES--Note: I have not tested these. They are more like suggestions!

Sweet Mango chutney

1 1/2 cups mangoes, either 2 fresh mangoes--ripe but still firm, peeled and cubed
or you can use Trader Joe's mangoes 1/2 package. They are the ripest. I like to crush a few pieces for more spreadable consistency.

1/2 teaspoon ground cardamom or 4 whole pods, intact. Remember not to eat!

1 1/2 cups sugar

1/4 cup water

Juice from 1 lime plus 1/3 cup water or 1/3 cup vinegar

1 teaspoon fresh grated ginger or 1/2 tsp. ground ginger (adjust to taste)

Ground black or dash red pepper flakes to taste

Heat all ingredients over high heat until mixture reaches a rolling boil. Then simmer all ingredients on low/low-medium heat for 30-40 minutes in a medium saucepan, the heavier the better.

Suggestions: Marries well with spicy Indian dish


Red Pepper Jelly (but technically conserves)

2 cups red, yellow and/or orange sweet peppers, seeded and roughly chopped. Mince if not using a food processor.

2 tsp. dried onion powder or flakes

1 1/2 cups sugar (have some more handy, to taste)

1/3 cup vinegar

1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon black pepper and/or dash cayenne pepper

pinch salt

Heat all ingredients over high heat until mixture reaches a rolling boil. Then simmer all ingredients on low/low-medium heat for 30-40 minutes in a medium (3-quart) saucepan, the heavier the better.


Onion Confit
4 onions, quartered lengthwinse and cut into thin slices
1 1/2 cups sugar (have some more handy, to taste)

1/3 cup vinegar

1/4 cup water

1/2 teaspoon black pepper and/or dash cayenne pepper

Heat onions over medium-high heat, stirring regularly until onions become soft. This may take 5-10 minutes. Then add remaining ingredients and simmer on low/low-medium heat for 1 hour, 10 minutes in a medium (3-quart) saucepan, the heavier the better.

Pineapple-Banana Conserves/Chutney
1 cup diced fresh or frozen pineapple. Use juice.
1 very ripe banana, sliced or chopped
1 teaspoon lime juice
1 cup sugar
Dash nutmeg
Dash vanilla extract
1 tablespoon butter, optional
chopped walnuts, optional

If making chutney:
replace nutmeg with garam masala
add some cayenne or hot pepper sauce to taste
Use 2 teaspoons lime juice
add handful of raisins (around 2 dozen), optional
Omit vanilla
Add a little salt

Heat all ingredients over high heat until mixture reaches a rolling boil. Then simmer all ingredients on low/low-medium heat for 30-40 minutes in a medium (3-quart) saucepan, the heavier the better.

Suggestions: Eat with curried pork chops, toasted buttered bread, chicken biryani and yogurt

Blueberry Goodness
1 1/2 cups frozen wild blueberries (Never used fresh. Probably because I would eat 1 1/2 cups of fresh blueberries)

1 lemon, seeded and diced, juice included

1 1/2 cups sugar

Heat all ingredients over high heat until mixture reaches a rolling boil. Then simmer all ingredients on low/low-medium heat for 30-40 minutes in a medium (3-quart) saucepan, the heavier the better.

Suggestions: Serve with scones, ice cream, pancakes, waffles & crepes, pound or angel food cake, as shortcake topping with fresh fruit and whipped cream.

Now what's the difference?
Confit, which is the past participle form of the French verb "confire" or "to preserve", is most often applied to preservation of meats, especially poultry and pork, by cooking them in their own fat or oils and allowing the fats to set.[1] However the term can also refer to fruit or vegetables which have been seasoned and cooked with honey or sugar until it has reached a jam-like consistency.[2] Savory confits, such as ones made with garlic or tomatoes, may call for a savory oil such as virgin olive oil as the preserving agent. Source: wikipedia.org

Jelly: Jelly is simply sweetened and jelled fruit juice, a clear, bright product. It is generally made by cooking fruit juice and sugar with pectin as a jelling agent and lemon juice as an acid, to maintain a consistent texture. Jelly is firm and will hold its shape (it “shakes”). Generally, jelly contains no pieces of fruit, although specialty jellies, like pepper jelly, may include pieces of jalapeño or other pepper.

Jam: Jam is made from crushed or chopped fruit cooked with sugar, and often pectin and lemon juice. Jam can be a purée of fruit or have a soft pulp, but it does not contain chunks of fruit.

Preserve or Preserves: A preserve differs from jam in that large or whole pieces of fruit are cooked (with sugar) to the point where the fruit is suspended in a syrup base. The texture of preserves is not smooth like jelly or jam.

Marmalade: Marmalade is a soft jelly, often citrus-based, that includes the flesh and often the peel of the fruit suspended throughout the jelly base. The sweetness of the jelly is offset by the bitterness of the peel offsets. Some products that are called marmalade—onion and tomato marmalades, for example—are actually misnamed jams and preserves.

Conserve: Conserve is a generally mixture of more than one fruit, often with added nuts and raisins, that is cooked until it becomes thick. It is used as a spread for breads, pastries and meats, and in the latter use is closest to chutney. Other producers refer to a thickly-stewed preserve as a conserve.

Chutney: Chutney is a spiced condiment of Indian origin (chatni is the Hindi word for strongly spiced) made of fruit or vegetables. It is typically served as an accompaniment to food, not as a spread. The spice level can range from mild to hot, and the consistency from a fine relish to a preserve or conserve. Fruit chutney consists of chopped fruit, vinegar, spices and sugar cooked into a chunky sweet-tart-spicy mix: according to one explanation, it “blurs the Western distinction between preserves and pickles.”

Fruit Butter: Fruit Butter, such as apple butter or prune butter, is fruit purée or pulp combined with sugar, lemon juice and spices, slowly cooked down to a smooth consistency. The “butter” refers to its smooth consistency: there is no actual butter in the product.

Fruit Curd: Fruit Curd is a creamy spread made with sugar, eggs and butter, generally flavored with citrus juice and zest. Lemon curd is the classic variety, but lime curd and blood orange curd can be found, as can other fruit curds such as the strawberry. A citrus curd is refreshingly tart, as opposed to more sugary jams and preserves. Unlike lemon custard, for example, lemon curd contains more lemon juice and zest, which gives it a more piquant flavor. The butter creates a smoother and creamier texture than jam. Curd also can be used to fill tart shells, and as a garnish.

Fruit Spread: Fruit Spread is generally a reduced-calorie product made with fruit juice concentrate and low-calorie sweeteners replacing all or part of the sugar.
Source: lifted verbatim from thenibble.com

picture from Simon Law