Food for thought: Recipes for budget-minded bon vivants

Cheap comfort foods

A lot of my favorite cheap comfort foods hail from Africa. If you think about it, what better source for making something good and plenty when families are often huge and wallets are often thin?

Binch akara-amazing fried black-eyed pea fritters
You can also save lots of time by not removing the "eyes" or only waiting 10 minutes before frying the akara like this. But don't tell my mom that I said that...
Binch akara taste so much better with onion gravy (a fried onion and pepper sauce) included in the second recipe. Don't skip it!


Tiakry/dege
I love this rice-pudding style dessert served cold, with orange blossom water and shredded coconut mixed in.

Black-eyed peas with palm oil sauce--I could eat my weight in this. I occasionally add dried fish instead of bouillon or salt, never take off the skins and make the sauce as soon as the beans start cooking to save time. Also, try adding a chopped bell pepper with the sauce. Oh, and I use 1/3 cup palm oil and 1/2 to 2/3 cup canola oil instead of 1 cup palm oil.

Cheeseburgers
OK, so these aren't always cheap in total cost by the time you add all the fixings, yet a good quality burger at home is cheaper than a good-quality burger at a restaurant when you count all the servings left over. I figured out a way to make hamburgers using stew beef that came out tender, cheaper, and of better quality meat than the ground variety. Plus, there's only a fraction of the fat of a regular hamburger in this version. As good or better than many restaurants, too. You will need a food processor for this. It will be hard for me to go back to using regular ground beef now!

1.5 lbs. lean stew beef, cubed (the smaller the pieces, the better)
4 slices turkey bacon
1 slice bread
1/3 cup milk
1/3 medium or large onion
Salt and pepper to taste

Set oven to broil or 500 degrees. Mash bread & milk together in a small bowl. Set aside. Pulse stew meat in food processor with onion. Tear turkey bacon into chunks. Add to processor when stew meat is almost free of chunks. Add in bread paste. Add pepper to taste. Pulse until just about uniform (maybe 5 more times.)

Make large patties (4 or 5) and put on a greased oven-safe pan. Shake a little salt on top, if desired. I also sliced the remaining onion and put in the pan. Spray meat and onions with nonstick spray, if desired. Broil for 3 minutes. Turn heat down to 350 and cook 10 minutes longer, until juices run clear for a well-done burger. The great thing is that you grind the meat at home and use right away, so there are a lot fewer bacteria on freshly-ground beef than the ground beef from the store. So, the hamburgers don't have to be well done at 160 degrees to be safe. Melt your favorite cheese, fix it the way you like and enjoy!

A plug for food processors: a budget-friendly friend for those with expensive tastes
A lot of my friends and acquaintances who want to cook more don't have food processors. I cannot stress enough that a food processor cuts time and saves money int the kitchen. You can make all kinds of quick things that have five ingredients or less like sorbet, Dijon vinaigrette, dough, tapenade, nut butters, hummus and pesto. If you eat pasta and spaghetti sauce from a bottle or can every night for dinner, you probably are not a candidate for a food processor. For me, it improves my creativity by allowing me to mix all kinds of stuff, especially some foods that are on the pricey side in stores. Unlike a blender, the mixture doesn't have to be too wet. Not to mention the money saved chopping, slicing and shredding compared to prepared produce or cheese at the supermarket or the time saved instead of cutting with a knife or grater. Some people prefer cutting up veggies and herbs themselves. I do that sometimes, but a food processor has helped me shave a lot of time off of food prep. And if you're buying pre-cut stuff at the market and think a food processor is expensive, think again. For the extra dollars per pound you pay for pre-cut produce, a food processor could pay for itself in a couple of months. I use just a basic Cuisinart that cost $90 on sale at the department store. I got it 7 years ago, and it's still going strong. It's not amazing in terms of what it can do, but it functions well and dependably. That's all I ask.

Goddess sundae
This is my sundae of milk & honey plus fruit. It is one of my main dessert cravings besides Nutella!
1 cup frozen fruit (usually use wild blueberries or mango chunks)
1/4 cup half & half (or coconut milk, soy creamer or evaporated milk)
1 Tbsp. honey

Arrange frozen fruit in bowl or cup. Pour half and half over fruit. Then drizzle honey over. If the fruit is really sweet, use 1 tsp. honey. Mix around a little to cover all of the fruit. This will make a nice slushy cream. Enjoy and wonder why you haven't been eating this your whole life!

Hopefully we'll all be inspired to cook things other than lentils, gruel and watery soups when times get a little rough. Food can be a real comfort when other sacrifices have to be made. It starts with not feeling sorry for one's self and making lemon granita when life hands out lemons.

Food for thought: Back with a vengeance to bring a budget meals bailout!

Dear friends in blogosphere,
It's been ages since I've blogged, and with good reason: our six-week old darling girl was worth the wait! It was near impossible to think about loving food when I was pregnant. I only wanted to eat one thing, whether eggs, cheese and tomatoes; almond butter, blueberry and banana smoothies; or fried tofu with wasabi, ginger and cucumbers. Not so inspiring day after day. And anything I wasn't eating would make me literally gag.

Needless to say, I'm pleased to be back in the saddle, reunited with all the wonderful things I can eat again. Only problem: times are a little bit harder, so I, like others, can't go all out like before. But we still need to eat! So, I've been thinking about how to scrimp without feeling it, and here's my edict from now until the New Year:

Continue buying good quality ingredients, mixed with more bargain produce, proteins & grains as a highlight, not a main ingredient. Avocadoes are a garnish, not guacamole. Good olive oil only comes in as a drizzle after I turn off the heat or on salads. Lean stew beef is my new best friend. I use a whole chicken and use extra portions for chicken taco salad. I eat really good cheeses with an apple, not just by itself.

Use cash at the supermarket when possible. That way I stay in budget and put stuff back until I really need it or can afford to get it. This week, I had to say no to another bottle of olive oil the second time in a row.

Buy "blank slate" ingredients and doctor them up myself. Well, I always did this to some degree, but now I'm trying to cut back on prepared foods. They can really add up. Plus, they give you less versatility. I used to by corn muffin or cornbread mix. Now I use baking mix (I will start making my own premixed at home with flour, baking soda, salt and dried buttermilk) and add in corn meal, sugar, and of course eggs and milk. Another thing I now do is buy a big tub of plain yogurt. I add in fruit and jam or honey to get the fruity effect. When it gets low, I make a yogurt dressing or use it to marinate chicken, tandoori style.

Which brings me to dried buttermilk. I used to buy fresh buttermilk all the time, until I discovered the powder form. We also have dried whole milk powder, which Nestle sells as Nido, in a yellow and red can, Int'l food aisle. Canned milk is great for baking, mac and cheese, and chilled desserts. I also have stocked up on frozen juices and mango and passion fruit concentrates. That way, drinks and desserts especially for a big family or entertaining, will stretch that dollar! If you are buying iced tea, lemonade and the like at the the store, strongly consider making them at home.

Here's a recipe for homemade ginger beer(a non-alcoholic infusion):
* fresh ginger roots, total size about as big as a hand (not ground ginger)
* juice of two limes (or similar amount of lemon, pineapple, or grapefruit juice)
* 3 cups sugar or 2 cans concentrated frozen pineapple, white grape or apple juice
* 1 gallon water

What you do

* Carefully peel and discard the ginger root's outer layer. Blend ginger root in two batches in the blender with 3 cups water (subtract amount form gallon) to a pulp and place in a large ovenproof glass mixing bowl or stainless steel container.
* Heat six cups of water to a boil. Pour water over the ginger, cover with a lid or a clean cloth.
* Place a clean cheesecloth or a paper towel in a strainer and pour the the mixture through it into a large jar or pitcher (or two jars or pitchers as necessary). Squeeze the cloth to extract all the liquid from the ginger root. Mix in the citrus juice, sugar/ juice concentrate. Fill the jar with lukewarm water to make a gallon.
* Refrigerate until chilled. Serve over ice.

Learn how to make more favorite foods from a cafe or restaurant at home. Making muffins, banana bread, biscuits, ice cream or sorbet, salad dressings, pizza, or your favorite restaurant meal saves loads of cash. I bought crab meat from Trader Joe's and made crab cakes for my parents and husband. Try it with remoulade sauce. I made enough to serve 3 for the price of one person in a restaurant. Plus, there's less incentive to go out. In most areas, eating at home saves a lot of money. Making all three meals without eating out keeps one way ahead of the game. Note to self: This also goes for hot chocolate, chai and snacks!

Study grocery store sale ads before shopping and plan meals around them. I save lots of money and still eat well! Plus, it's easy to tell ahead of time if coupons apply for what's on sale. I honestly don't use a lot of coupons, but I'm avoiding buying prepared foods in the first place.

Last, I try to use every last scrap. My hope is that when baby starts eating solid foods, the steamed carrots will become cream of carrot soup for my lunch; leftover fruit goes in yogurt or becomes chutney, salsa or a popsicle; meat is a chicken salad sandwich, a taco or soup, etc. It will also keep me from eating 2 meals at once. We'll see what happens, but that's what I try to do now: recycle food like the lunch ladies at school.

Meal extenders:
* Potatoes, white or sweet
* Lentils or any bean. Dried is a big money saver!
* Stew meat--beef, lamb, goat and pot roast. For both of these, cook the meat with oil on high heat on the stovetop with a pan that is NOT nonstick for a few minutes on all sides until brown areas appear, then cook at a low temperature on stove or in oven for 2-3.5 hours, depending on size/amount of other ingredients. African curries, stews, and soups are great ways to use stew meats. Pot roast is great in a slow cooker, they say, but I have yet to try it myself.
* Frozen veggies or big bags of your favorite frozen fruit
Brown (more nutrients) or white rice
* Dairy products or their substitutes (in their least expensive form)
* Chicken other than breast and wing. I now only buy frozen breast, since I buy organic/kosher, which is $$$$!!! On the upside, I cook the breast from frozen, which keeps it juicy.
* Local, in season foods tend to taste better and cost less.

Meal enhancers:
* Sliced almonds (you get the taste but can sprinkle and use less
* Great olive oil
* Butter, cooked over medium heat until brown bits appear. This will add tons of flavor to your food.
* Fresh herbs/spices. Parsley, cilantro, garlic, scallions, ginger, mint, lime zest/juice, hot peppers and rosemary add lots of flavor yet are really cheap
* Dried fruits, cut up or sprinkled, according to size.
* Molasses, brown sugar, sugar in the raw, and honey. These add a lot more flavor than white sugar to most sweetened foods.
* Really good cheese in small amounts

Happy cooking! More recipes to come!

Food for thought: Look Ma, no oven! and Spargelfest

If you can't stand the heat, get out of the kitchen, they say. Poaching is a quick and tasty way to keep that oven closed and serve a delicious meal!

poached salmon with tarragon sauce and fingerling potatoes

For sauce
2 large bunches fresh tarragon (about 1 ounce total)
1 large bunch fresh chives (about 2/3 ounce)
1 large shallot
3/4 cup fresh flat-leafed parsley leaves
1 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup rice vinegar (not seasoned)
2 teaspoons Dijon mustard

For fish
2 1/2 cups dry white wine
2 1/2 cups water
a 2 1/2- to 3-pound salmon fillet with skin
1 1/2 pounds pink fingerling or other new potatoes

Garnish: 1/2 pound cooked sugar snap peas, diagonally cut into thirds

Make sauce
Pick enough tarragon leaves to measure 1/2 cup (do not pack). Chop enough chives to measure 1/3 cup. Coarsely chop shallot. In a food processor puree tarragon, chives, and shallot with remaining sauce ingredients until smooth and season with salt and pepper. Sauce may be made 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring sauce to cool room temperature before serving.

Make Fish
In a deep 10-inch skillet bring wine and water to a simmer, covered. Cut salmon into 6 pieces and season with salt and pepper. Submerge 3 salmon pieces, skin sides down, in simmering liquid (add hot water if necessary to just cover salmon) and poach at a bare simmer, covered, 8 minutes, or until just cooked through. Transfer cooked salmon with a slotted spatula to a platter to cool and poach remaining salmon in same manner. When salmon is cool enough to handle, peel off skin and if desired with a sharp knife scrape off any dark meat. Salmon may be cooked 1 day ahead and chilled, covered. Bring salmon to cool room temperature before serving.

Assemble
Cut potatoes lengthwise into 1/8-inch-thick slices. In a steamer set over boiling water steam potatoes until just tender, 4 to 5 minutes. Spoon sauce onto 6 plates and arrange some potatoes in a circle, overlapping slightly, on top of sauce . Season potatoes with salt and arrange salmon on top of potatoes. Garnish salmon with peas.


chicken salad tea sandwiches with smoked almonds

Servings: Makes 24 tea sandwiches.
Ingredients
3 cups chicken broth or water
2 whole boneless chicken breasts with skin (about 1 1/2 pounds),
halved
1 cup mayonnaise
1/3 cup minced shallot
1 teaspoon minced fresh tarragon leaves
24 very thin slices homemade-type white bread
1/2 cup finely chopped smoked almonds (about 2 ounces)
Preparation
In a deep 12-inch skillet bring broth or water to a boil and add chicken breasts in one layer. Reduce heat and poach chicken at a bare simmer, turning once, 7 minutes. Remove skillet from heat and cool chicken in cooking liquid 20 minutes. Discard skin and shred chicken fine.

In a bowl stir together chicken, 1/2 cup of mayonnaise, shallot, tarragon, and salt and pepper to taste.

Make 12 sandwiches with chicken salad and bread, pressing together gently. With a 2-inch round cutter cut 2 rounds from each sandwich.

Put almonds on a small plate and spread edges of rounds with remaining 1/2 cup mayonnaise to coat well. Roll edges in almonds. Sandwiches may be made 2 hours ahead, wrapped in plastic wrap, and chilled.

poached chicken with tomatoes, olives, and green beans


4 skinless boneless chicken breast halves (1 3/4 lb total)
1 tablespoon plus 1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
5 cups water
1 3/4 cups low-sodium chicken broth (14 fl oz)
1 fresh thyme sprig
3/4 lb haricots verts or other thin green beans, trimmed
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 lb tomatoes, cut into 1/4-inch dice (3 cups)
1/2 cup brine-cured green and black olives such as picholine and Kalamata, pitted and chopped
1 tablespoon torn fresh oregano leaves
1/8 teaspoon black pepper
Sprinkle chicken all over with 1 tablespoon salt and let stand.

While chicken is standing, bring water, broth, and thyme to a boil in a 4- to 6-quart heavy pot, then add beans and cook, uncovered, until crisp-tender, 3 to 6 minutes. Transfer beans with a slotted spoon to a bowl and toss with 1 tablespoon oil and salt and pepper to taste.

Add salted chicken to broth and cook at a bare simmer, uncovered, 6 minutes. Remove pot from heat and let stand, covered, until chicken is cooked through, about 15 minutes .

Transfer chicken with tongs to a cutting board and cool, about 5 minutes.

While chicken is cooling, stir together tomatoes, olives, oregano, pepper, and remaining 1/4 teaspoon salt and 4 tablespoons oil in a bowl.

Holding a knife at a 45-degree angle, cut chicken across the grain into 1-inch-thick slices.

Divide green beans among 4 plates, then arrange sliced chicken over beans and top with tomato olive mixture.

Cook's note:
Beans, chicken, and tomato olive mixture can be made 2 hours ahead and chilled separately, covered.


A spring salad, if, like me, insalata caprese is one of your favorites. "Mangoes take the place of tomatoes, so you don't have to wait until summer to enjoy this much-loved Italian salad."

mango-radicchio caprese with basil vinaigrette
Servings: Makes 4 servings

1/3 cup chopped fresh basil plus 8 whole large basil leaves
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
2 tablespoons white balsamic vinegar
8 radicchio leaves, thick ends trimmed
2 large mangoes, peeled, halved, thinly sliced
8 1/4-inch-thick slices fresh mozzarella cheese (from one 8-ounce ball)


Blend chopped basil, oil, and vinegar in mini processor until most of basil is pureed. Season with salt and pepper.

Overlap radicchio, mangoes, cheese, and basil leaves on plates. Drizzle with vinaigrette. Serve, passing remaining vinaigrette.



Celebrate Spring with Asparagus! In Germany, Spargelfest is a two-month springtime feast for asparagus. Celebrate the peak of this tasty vegetable right at home. Thanks, Treda, for telling me about this worthwhile celebration.


asparagus with prosciutto, pecorino, and poached eggs


Epicurious | May 2007

32 large asparagus spears (about 3 pounds), trimmed and peeled
8 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
8 large eggs
4 teaspoons sea salt
2 teaspoons freshly ground black pepper
8 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice (from 1 medium lemon)
8 thin slices proscuitto (about 4 ounces total)
3 ounces Pecorino or parmesan cheese, finely grated
2 tablespoons fresh flat-leaf parsley, finely chopped

Special equipment: nonstick muffin pan with 12 (1/3-cup) cups

Have ready large bowl ice water. In medium saucepan over high heat, bring salted water to boil. Add asparagus and boil, uncovered, until crisp-tender, 2 to 3 minutes. Drain, then immediately plunge spears into ice water to stop cooking. Drain again and pat dry.

Preheat grill to moderate heat.

Transfer asparagus to large rimmed baking sheet and drizzle with 4 tablespoons olive oil. Toss to coat. Grill, in batches if necessary, until lightly charred, 8 to 10 minutes. Keep warm.

Arrange oven rack in middle position and preheat oven to 400°F. Lightly oil muffin pan.

Crack one egg into each muffin cup (there will be 4 empty cups). Place muffin pan in large roasting pan and add enough hot water to reach halfway up the sides of muffin pan. Bake until eggs are set but yolks are still runny, about 7 to 8 minutes.

While eggs cook, arrange 4 asparagus spears in fan pattern on each of 8 plates. Sprinkle each plate with 1/2 teaspoon salt and 1/4 teaspoon pepper, then drizzle each with 1 teaspoon lemon juice. Drape 1 slice prosciutto atop asparagus on each plate.

Using small offset spatula, carefully remove eggs from pan and place 1 atop each slice prosciutto. Drizzle with remaining 4 tablespoons olive oil and sprinkle with Pecorino Pepata and parsley.

Cook's note: If you prefer, the asparagus can be baked instead of grilled. Skip the boiling step. Drizzle the raw asparagus with oil and bake it at 450°F on a large rimmed baking sheet until tender, about 10 minutes.

asparagus with hazelnut vinaigrette

Serves 6
For Vinaigrette
1 large shallot, minced
2 tablespoons Sherry vinegar or red-wine vinegar
1 tablespoon Dijon mustard
1/2 teaspoon sugar
1/3 cup extra-virgin olive oil
1/4 cup hazelnuts, toasted, skinned and chopped

1 hard-cooked large egg
2 pounds asparagus, trimmed and lower 2 inches of stalks peeled

Make vinaigrette:
In a bowl whisk together shallot, vinegar, mustard, sugar and salt and pepper to taste. Add oil in a stream, whisking, and whisk until emulsified. Whisk in hazelnuts.

Finely chop egg. In a deep 10- to 12-inch skillet bring 1 1/2 inches salted water to a boil and cook asparagus over high heat until crisp-tender, about 2 to 4 minutes. Transfer asparagus with tongs to a colander and drain.

Transfer asparagus to a serving dish. Spoon vinaigrette over asparagus and sprinkle with egg. Serve asparagus warm or at room temperature.

roasted asparagus with goat cheese and bacon

Serves 6; double or triple the recipe if serving for a crowd.
6 bacon slices

2 pounds medium asparagus, tough ends trimmed
2 tablespoons plus 2 teaspoons olive oil
1 3 1/2- to 4-ounce log soft fresh goat cheese, crumbled
2 teaspoons fresh lemon juice
1 teaspoon grated lemon peel

Cook bacon in heavy large skillet over medium heat until brown and crisp. Transfer to paper towels and drain. Crumble bacon; set aside.

Position rack in center of oven and preheat to 500°F. Arrange asparagus on large rimmed baking sheet. Drizzle with 2 tablespoons oil and turn asparagus to coat well. Sprinkle generously with salt and pepper. Roast asparagus until crisp-tender when pierced with knife, about 7 minutes. Arrange asparagus in single layer on platter. Sprinkle with goat cheese, then bacon. Drizzle with lemon juice and remaining 2 teaspoons oil. Sprinkle grated lemon peel over. (Can be prepared 1 hour ahead. Cover with plastic wrap. Let stand at room temperature.)


mint sauce for asparagus

double this for 4-6 people

1/2 cup loosely packed fresh mint leaves
1 garlic clove, smashed and peeled
2 tablespoons fat-free chicken broth
2 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 teaspoon fresh lemon juice
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/8 teaspoon black pepper

Food for thought: Easter Feast

Easter/Passover/Spring

Spring, combined with the holidays of Easter & Passover, create unique themes in food. There's a tinge of the hard truths of human nature coupled with fertile rebirth.

I like foods that conjure the Old Testament and the foods/regions mentioned in scripture: lamb, figs, almonds, rosemary, mustard seed, red wine/grapes/raisins, unleavened bread, potatoes, sage, olives and olive oil, dates, and apricots. One gets the idea. Poke around epicurious.com for recipes. I prefer Gourmet's recipes, as they seem to be well-tested to me. BettyCrocker.com tests recipes well too, but they rely more heavily on processed foods in their ingredient lists.

Some ideas:

Meat and Fish
Decadent crusted lamb with honey-apricot relish--recipe follows

Smoked duck with pomegranate-maple syrup

Sauteed rosemary chicken breast with portobello mushrooms and petite peas

Ham with fruit chutney

Firm fish (tilapia) poached, with a lemon zest, dill and green onion sauce


Side Dishes
Grilled asparagus with lemon butter

Bitter/spicy salad greens such as frisee, radicchio, endive, and arugula with a lemon-tahini dressing

Snow peas with tarragon

New potatoes with fresh sage

Petite peas or steamed cauliflower with tarragon-avacado vinaigrette

Fava beans with lemon pepper

Flat bread (pita bread, lavash) with tapenade

Rice steeped in beef broth, lemon and oregano

Caramelized red onions and balsamic vinegar


Desserts
Fig-raisin bread (as in a dessert bread to serve with wine and cheese)

Date-Apricot pie with almond topping

Baklava


Recipe: Apricot & Rosemary Lamb (Betty Crocker)

It is divine! I make this on many special occasions. Notes: Usually, I marinate the leg for 24 hours. I use balsamic vinegar instead of the red wine. I also add about 16 cloves of garlic instead of the 8 listed and crust the lamb with dried rosemary, a couple crushed peppercorns, salt and dried thyme. Sometimes I've added sweet onion to the relish or the marinade. Trimming the fat and adding lots of fresh rosemary really improve the flavor!

5-pound bone-in leg of lamb
8 small cloves garlic, cut lengthwise in half
4 rosemary sprigs, each about 4 inches long, cut into 4 pieces
1 can (15 to 16 ounces) apricot halves in light syrup, drained and syrup reserved
1/2 cup dry red wine or nonalcoholic red wine
1/4 cup olive or vegetable oil
2 tablespoons honey
1/4 teaspoon salt
1 teaspoon chopped fresh rosemary leaves

1. Make 16 small slits, each about 1/2 inch wide and 1 inch deep, over surface of lamb. Insert 1 garlic and 1 rosemary piece in each slit using tip of knife. Place lamb in large resealable food-storage plastic bag or shallow glass or plastic dish.
2. Mix reserved apricot syrup, the wine, oil, 1 tablespoon of the honey and the salt; pour over lamb. Seal bag or cover dish and refrigerate at least 8 hours but no longer than 24 hours, turning lamb occasionally.
3. Heat oven to 325ºF. Remove lamb from marinade; reserve marinade. Place lamb, fat side up, on rack in shallow roasting pan. Insert ovenproof meat thermometer so tip is in thickest part of lamb and does not touch bone or rest in fat.
4. Bake uncovered about 2 hours, brushing once or twice with marinade, until thermometer reads 140°F. Cover lamb loosely with foil and let stand 10 to 15 minutes or until thermometer reads 145°F. (Temperature will continue to rise about 5°, and lamb will be easier to carve.) Reserve 1/4 cup marinade; discard any remaining marinade. Garnish with additional apricot halves and fresh rosemary leaves if desired.
5. Meanwhile, place apricots in food processor or blender. Cover and process until smooth. In 1-quart saucepan, heat apricots, 1/4 cup marinade, remaining 1 tablespoon honey and the chopped rosemary. Heat to boiling. Boil 1 to 2 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve sauce with lamb.

Wine pairings: a light, fruity red, such as Beaujolais Nouveau, a Red Zinfandel, or a really dry Rose with a fruity character. A Moscato or Muscat would bring out the honey and grape flavors of a dish. With rich dishes combining green vegetables and cream or butter, try a buttery Chardonnay or a snappy Sancerre.

Food for thought: Cookbooks that have caught my eye

How I do love a good cookbook. I read them like novels. There's the mystery and intrigue of how a dish will ultimately turn out. There's often comedy, when a recipe seems highly inaccurate and untested. Romance takes the form of a recipe that makes you swoon, or a recipe that will make someone else wobbly-kneed. And there's tragedy when you realize that a cookbook didn't live up to your expectations.

There are many food-related books I want to check out or buy for others. Here is my "in-the-inbox-but-not-sure-if-I'll-actually buy-them" list:


In Defense of Food: An Eater's Manifesto by Michael Pollan

I loved his book The Omnivore's Dilemma. I think there's a lot going wrong and right with food these days, and Senor Pollan takes an admirable stab at bringing food industry and industrious issues to the fore. The premise behind this book is to eat food, not a lot, mostly plants. He has a 12-page article "Unhappy Meals" in the NY Times that looks like it's a great synopsis of the book. I think this one's coming home with me.


Crescent City Cooking: Unforgettable Recipes from Susan Spicer's New Orleans by Susan Spicer and Paula Disbrowe

I love sensing I'm in the company of a passionate yet deliberate chef. Passion spurs creativity, while deliberation ensures accuracy. This book seems like it might be psychoanalysis with recipes as a fringe benefit. New Orleans has good food at every turn, just an amazing confluence of food, fun and sense of place. If Susan Spicer's recipes live up to her hype, I might treat myself to this later on. But I'll sit down with it at Borders before I make any rash decisions.


Fast Food My Way by Jacques Pepin and Ben Fink

I was never into Jacques Pepin when my food quest started. It wasn't until I'd watch "Fast Food My Way" on PBS that I sat up and took notice. Pepin fuses southern French/northern Italian cooking with Latin, American and even Scandinavian cooking. He has knife skills that get me misty-eyed. Plus, he actually takes respectable shortcuts without sabotaging flavor. That's not to say I love everything he makes. As he slides anchovies in the blender to make a gray-brown aioli, my stomach churns. But his show was among the best instruction I'd seen on how to teach people to use time and on-hand ingredients to their advantage. I thought I was slick by trying to download recipes from his website, but most of my favorites weren't there. After looking through this at the bookstore, I may buy this and pick one up for a friend who wants to learn how to cook. For someone learning how to cook with very little experience, I'd definitely recommend his DVDs by the same name. One caveat: Pepin uses a lot of gadgets that a budding home cook most likely won't have.


A Love Affair with Southern Cooking: Recipes and Recollections by Jean Anderson

There are a kajillion recipes in this thing. It looks quite comprehensive and like it's from many different parts of the South. That said, I am at once respectful and a little fearful of Southern cooking. However,I think I could cope with this cookbook. Anderson explains some of the "whys", as in the history of colas, foods and name origins like Frogmore Stew. I think the appeal is that the author grew up in the South, yet she was from a Yankee family. This disarms me and piques my curiosity. Plus, I love the idea that many of the recipes were culled from social teas and other "ladies who lunch" settings. Maybe I'll give this to a friend (then borrow it!)


The Whole Foods Allergy Cookbook: Two Hundred Gourmet & Homestyle Recipes for the Food Allergic Family by Cybele Pascal

I try to be aware of allergens and key preferences when I cook. These days, when cooking for people at work, church and other mainstream settings, it's good to steer clear of allergens that can really hamper someone's enjoyment of others' food. I've been meaning to get a book like this, so if I'm ever faced with someone having multiple food allergies, I can make something that is delicious in its own merit instead of being something like a "no-cheese" cheesecake or "tastes like the real thing." I think that position stems from trying to make good vegetarian meals that didn't just substitute all the things people weren't trying to eat anyway, like meat, cheese, milk, eggs, etc. This cookbook looks like it addresses food allergies with some dignity.


Happy cooking!

Food for thought: Thanksgiving--If you're going to do it, do it right!

I go to the grocery store just for fun. I poke plums, compare unit prices and try samples. The grocery store is also great for people watching, namely the wild-eyed people preparing their first or most important Thanksgiving meal.

So, if you are one of those people, let me shake some sense into you. Read these tips, and plan your victory in the kitchen. I usually give recipes, but you may have already clipped, borrowed or Googled recipes. What have you planned?

1. Now is not the time to experiment.
I'm talking to people who have not made a certain recipe before and want to get all Julia Child when dinner's ready in 0400 hours. What if someone has a food allergy? Find a different recipe. If it's an omnivore to herbivore thing, definitely find a different recipe. Last resort, buy something like egg replacer. Food is chemistry, and sometimes ingredients are there for taste and chemistry function. Click on the "Food for thought" title to get a list of substitutions. I also incuded the list at the bottom. By the way, it's 1/4 tsp. baking soda and an acid agent like lemon juice or buttermilk for 1 tsp. baking powder.

2. Observe times and measurements. Again, now's not the time to play. There are about 360 other days when you can do that. If you know your oven is a little cold or hot, try to check often WITHOUT OPENING THE OVEN. That will slow things down. No light? Flashlight! And set a timer. Every 30 minutes after a few hours for big meats; after the first 20 minutes for baked goods except for cookies--or the first sign of smoke? On the other hand, avoid doing tasks like gossiping in another room, or showering when you can't rush back to fix a slight burning smell.

3. If something burns: if it is meat, look at the layer underneath. You may have to do some peeling. If it is just the top layer, try rinsing to get all the burnt liquid off. Another technique (I just did this last week) is to add a layer of dressing or marinade and blackened spices. Keep blackening spices around, and make lemonade out of those lemons.

4. Use nonstick pans when possible for starches like rice, beans, potatoes and stuffing. This will greatly reduce a bad burn. Plus, be extra vigilant, since it is hard to remove the burnt taste from these items. If you are a meat eater, have some smoked meat on hand to help disguise this-think bacos or bacon bits.

5. For burnt breads, try using a microplane, a zester, or a serrated knife to rescue burnt items. A burnt chocolate cake? I boldly called it mocha and nobody knew. I was told it was the best mocha cake they'd had.

6. Plan your meal by working backwards. Look at the time all the recipes take, which ones can be made ahead, and which ones you can do some steps for early and some steps for later. Plus, plan ahead for a life line: is there someone you can call to go to the store for you? Is there a 24-hour store, like some Shoppers or a Harris Teeter, or even a CVS, where you can go at midnight and stock up? And in terms of life lines, try to line up a couple people who have an attention span to stir while you shower, give directions and taste food for flavor balance.

7. Try not to accidentally kill people. If you are trying to do harm, that's on you. But the last thing you want is a nickname like "Shrimp salad Sally", and everyone starts simulating puking when you walk by. Wash vegetables with one part vinegar (1/4 cup) and 3 parts water (3/4 cup). This will take the waxes, bacteria and pesticides off. Rinse well to get vinegar taste out. Keep cold foods cold--40 degrees or under, and keep hot foods hot--over 135. If you are traveling over two hours--include the time it's sitting on the table without being reheated or cooled, make plans to bring a cooler or insulated bags. Even wrapping things in foil first can help. Please avoid doing the slick "I'll cook the turkey halfway at home, then cook it for two more hours at Mom's. Uh-uh. All or nothing. Juices should run clear for meats, poultry and fish. Only microwaving meats--bad for taste and not a guarantee things are cooked. Unless your family is comprised of Swiss watchmakers, they should be OK with things running a little late. Think of it as saving lives.

8. When making vegetarian meals, do it the way nature intended
These days, people seem to eat fewer things than ever, due to a variety of reasons. Avoid suspending belief when making food. "It tastes just like such-and-such" is a clear giveaway that the recipe should be reconsidered. Avoid buying everything that tastes like chicken, beef, sausage, tuna, cheese, and turkey. Perhaps that is not most pleasing to your guest (or even to you!) Try looking at Mediterranean-Greek and Italian- or Asian-Indian cuisine that doesn't rely on meat. Take stuffing. Try using chestnuts, mushrooms or nuts instead of meat. If you have an insufferably picky person, or someone you just don't know well of legendary finickiness, try to make that person's favorite dish. It sure beats trying to find just the right thing. If it's a hamburger, so what. Use the time you've saved trying to figure someone out by sleeping!

9. Use flavorful ingredients and methods
Fresh basil
fresh sage
fresh flat-leaf parsley
Fresh rosemary

Unsalted butter
Nut oils
Olive oil
Nut butter
Tahini

Real Parmigiano-Reggiano-nothing in a can.

Roast vegetables whenever possible. Use fresh green beans, unless you are trying to cook them until they are grey. If you hate cutting onions and are going to cook them, buy frozen. Avoid skimping on them.

Meats that aren't "enhanced", then frozen. Pork chops especially come out drier. If you are going to freeze, then make, use "natural".

Brine meats (with the exception of kosher meats, which are already brined). Soak meat for 6-8 hours in a water-salt-spice solution for maximum flavor. Just look this up, and you will find plenty of into. I'd say 6 tablespoons salt/gallon water. Kosher salt is best.

Cook your ham in an oven bag. Remove when it's 10 minutes away from being done. Make your own glaze with preserves heated until they're liquid-cherry, peach, pineapple or apple butter-- and combine pan drippings. Cook for 20 minutes.

Separate the skin from the meat in poultry. Put your hand in either side of the breast while leaving the middle intact. put herb butter or trans-fat-free margarine in the space between skin and meat; move hand around to distribute. For crisp skin, cook at 450 degrees for fifteen minutes AT THE BEGINNING. Then, turn heat down to regular levels.

Make your own salad dressings ahead of time, if possible.

Green bean casserole
Make your own mushroom sauce instead of cream of mushroom soup. Cook mushrooms for 20 minutes with a little salt, or until the mushrooms are dry. Over low heat, add cream cheese-Neufchatel is good for those cutting fat corners. Buy 8 oz; use half and adjust to desired creaminess. Add 1/2 MSG-free bouillon cube and slowly add water. Add a few French fried onions to provide thickening. Add pepper and thyme to taste, and cook 5 more minutes on very low heat.

10. If there are people who have many different preferences like artery busters next to twig eaters, make a dessert and toppings bar where people can help themselves. Have cut fresh fruit, pies, nuts, honey, granola, chocolate sauce, ice cream, and cakes.

Enjoy and make sure someone else cleans up! HAPPY THANKSGIVING!

FOOD SUBSTITUTIONS

• 1 teaspoon baking powder = ¼ teaspoon baking soda plus ½ cup buttermilk or ¼ teaspoon baking soda plus 5/8 teaspoon cream of tartar

• 1 cup sifted cake flour = 7/8 cup sifted all-purpose flour or 1 cup all-purpose flour minus 1-2 tablespoons

• 1 cup self-rising flour = 1 cup sifted all-purpose flour plus 1½ teaspoons baking powder and ½ teaspoon salt

• 1 cup all-purpose flour = 1 cup whole wheat flour

• 1 cup honey = 1 to 1¼ cups sugar plus ¼ cup liquid

• 2 large eggs = 3 small eggs

• 1 medium egg = 2 egg yolks plus 1 tablespoon water (for baking)

• 1 medium egg = 2 egg yolks (in custards or cream fillings)

• 1 ounce unsweetened chocolate = 1 square or 3 tablespoons unsweetened cocoa powder plus 1 tablespoon butter or margarine

• 6 squares or 6 ounces semisweet chocolate, melted = 1 cup semisweet chocolate chips, melted

• 1 tablespoon cornstarch (as thickening) = 2 tablespoons flour or 2 teaspoons quick tapioca or 2 egg yolks

• 1 teaspoon lemon juice = ½ teaspoon vinegar

• 1 tablespoon fresh herbs = ½ to 1 teaspoon dried herbs

• 1 small garlic clove = 1/8 teaspoon garlic powder

• 1 pound fresh mushrooms = 3 ounces dried or 6 ounces canned

• 1 cup whipping cream, whipped = 2 cups thawed whipped topping

• 1 cup whipping cream as liquid = 1/3 cup melted butter plus ¾ cup milk

• 1 cup light cream = 3 tablespoons melted butter plus ¾ cup milk

• 1 cup ricotta cheese = 1 cup cottage cheese, liquid drained

• 1 cup buttermilk = 1 cup plain yogurt, stirred, or 1 tablespoon lemon juice stirred into milk to make 1 cup; let stand 5 minutes to make soured milk for baking only (never use sour milk that's been in the fridge too long; it's actually spoiled)

• 1 cup whole milk = 2 teaspoons melted butter plus 1 cup fat-free milk (or water) or equal parts evaporated milk and water or 1 cup nonfat dry milk plus 2 teaspoons melted butter

• 1 cup sour cream = 3 tablespoons melted butter stirred into 7/8 cup buttermilk, soured milk or plain yogurt

• 1 cup sour cream = 1 cup plain yogurt (but it will taste less rich from the missing fat)

• Pecans = walnuts, almonds or hazelnuts

• Chunky peanut butter = creamy peanut butter (or grind roasted peanuts in a blender with a little peanut oil)

• 1 cup bread crumbs = ¾ cup cracker crumbs

• 1 cup butter = 1 cup margarine or 7/8 cup vegetable oil or 7/8 cup butter-flavored shortening

• 1 pound lard = 2 cups shortening

• 1 cup sugar (in baking bread) = 1 cup honey plus a pinch of baking soda

• 1 cup sugar (in baking) = 7/8 cup honey plus a pinch of baking soda

• 1 cup sugar (in main dishes) = ¾ cup honey

• 1 cup brown sugar = 1 cup white sugar plus 2 tablespoons molasses

• 1 cup molasses (in baking) = 1 cup sugar (omit baking soda; use baking powder)

• ½ cup dry red wine or white wine = 2 tablespoons sherry or port

• ¾ cup maple syrup = ¾ cup maple-flavored syrup, corn syrup or 1 cup sugar and increase liquid in recipe by 3 tablespoons

• 1 teaspoon pumpkin pie spice = ¼ teaspoon nutmeg, ¼ teaspoon ginger, ½ teaspoon cinnamon

• 1 pound tomatoes = 3 medium or ¾ cup sauce (6 ounces) or ¼ cup paste (2 ounces)

• 8 ounces tomato sauce = 2/3 cup water plus 1/3 cup tomato paste

• 3 cups tomato juice = 2½ cups water plus 6 ounces tomato paste plus ¾ teaspoon salt, dash of sugar

• 1 large marshmallow = 10 mini (dust off cornstarch from their surfaces or it might overload a recipe)

• 1 cup granulated sugar = 1¾ cups powdered sugar for uses other than baking

• ¼ teaspoon powdered ginger = 1 teaspoon chopped fresh or 2 teaspoon minced crystallized

• 1 head fresh dill = 2 teaspoons dill seed

• 1 tablespoon grated fresh horseradish = 2 tablespoons bottled

• 1 teaspoon lemon juice = ½ teaspoon vinegar

• 1 teaspoon dry mustard = 1 tablespoon prepared mustard or ½ teaspoon mustard seeds

• 1 /4 cup rum = 1 teaspoon rum extract plus liquid to make ¼ cup

• 1 teaspoon vanilla extract = 1 inch vanilla bean, split and simmered in liquid of recipe

• 1 cup wine = 13 tablespoons water, 3 tablespoons lemon juice and 1 tablespoon sugar or a little less than 1 cup apple juice plus lemon juice

• 1 cup dry bread crumbs = 3 to 4 slices bread, torn and processed

• 1 cup sweetened condensed milk = 1 cup plus 2 tablespoons dry milk powder plus ½ cup warm water plus ¾ cup sugar and dissolve

• ½ teaspoon cream of tartar = 1½ teaspoons lemon juice or vinegar

• 1 tablespoon maple sugar = 1 tablespoon granulated sugar plus a dash of maple extract

Food for thought--All for fall-harvest recipes

I love fall! Vivid leaves falling, hiking, visiting orchards, hayrides, bonfires and Hallowe'en. Autumn celebrates the harvest and changes. I especially love autumnal food and celebrating the bounty. Enjoy these recipes! Also, click on the "Food for thought" title or here for a yummy seasonal salmon recipe.
Menu
Farfalle with Roasted Butternut Cream Sauce
Roasted Beet Salad, Sauteed Beet Tops and Bleu cheese with Orange Dressing
Brown Butter Chicken with Parsley and Garlic
Jewish Apple Cake

Wine: 2005 Riesling (next time, Pinot Grigio or Sancerre to cut the richness)

Farfalle with Roasted Butternut Cream Sauce
Serves 6

1 1/2 pounds farfalle, or bow-tie pasta. Cook according to package directions.

2 small or one large winter squash (used butternut), seeded and halved
1/2 stick butter
10 leaves fresh sage, chopped
5 stems parsley, minced
Dash nutmeg, optional
1/2 small onion or 1 shallot, chopped
1 clove garlic, minced
3 Tbsp flour
1 bouillon cube or 1/2 tsp. salt
1 pint half-and-half
1/3 cup pecans
1/4 C grated parmesan

Roast seeded and halved squash, face down on cookie sheet or glass pans, in 400 oven for 40 minutes, until tender and "scoopable" from their skins. Allow to cool, then scoop into bowl. Mash if necessary until smooth. You will need at least 1 1/2 cups. Set aside.

In a skillet over med-high heat, melt butter. When bubbly, add fresh sage and parsley. When the leaves have darkened, add onion and optional nutmeg. Cook and stir until onion starts becoming translucent and glossy. Add garlic and cook 1 minute. Add flour, and stir often until flour turns a very light brown. Reduce heat to medium. Add salt or bouillon.

Over medium heat, add milk slowly, stirring often, until you have used about half. Add squash and stir and smush to even out texture. Add the rest of cream while stirring. Add pecans. Turn off heat. Then add cheese, stirring until combined. The sauce will be quite thick and will sit on top of pasta. I prefer to toss the sauce and pasta together, with a little extra sauce on top.


Roasted Beet Salad, Sauteed Beet Tops and Bleu cheese with Orange Dressing
Serves 8-10
Roast 5 or 6 peeled beets wrapped in foil, with squash or by themselves--400 for 40 minutes in the oven should be enough.
Slice in disks or in small wedges.

Reserve beet tops. Rinse well 2 times under running water. Discard red stems; save the leaves. Sautee with a dash butter or olive oil and a dash of salt and pepper until wilted. Remove from pan and put in serving bowl. If you don't have the beet tops, use kale, spinach or mustard greens.

Throw in a few apple pieces and pecans from the other recipes into the bowl. Thinly slice some leftover onion from the squash into the bowl-about 20 small pieces.

Dressing- Mix 1/2 C orange juice, 1/4 c olive oil, dash vinegar, salt and pepper to taste, parsley and remaining onion in food processor. Mix until smooth. Pour over salad. Top or toss in crumbled bleu cheese, maybe 3 oz total.

Poulet a la grenouille-Chicken, frog-leg style
Don't get freaked out--it's just chicken sauteed in butter with parsley and garlic. I saw this on Jacques Pepin's Fast Food My Way a few years back. I think I made it that same day!

Really simple!
Chop skinless chicken breasts into cubes. Or, leave them whole or in large strips for a more formal presentation.

Coat them with flour and pepper, but do not add salt yet.

Sauté in melted butter. Or, you can mix butter and olive oil about 50/50. After they’ve lightly browned, add salt, garlic and chopped parsley to taste. Cook about 2 minutes longer.

If you are using rather large pieces, finish them off in the oven, so as not to have a burnt crust and an undercooked inside.


Jewish apple cake

named for its place on the table during Rosh Hashanah.I just made this on Sat. and have included my modifications. This is not a very sweet cake, as written. It tastes like the Apple Cake at Whole Foods, albeit with a better butter flavor! Feel free to use sweeter apples and/or increase the sugar by 1/4 to 1/3 cup for a more pronounced sugary taste, and to mirror the original recipe.

5 apples, peeled and diced (used Granny Smith)
1/4 tsp. cinnamon, plus another 1/4 tsp. reserved
1/3 c sugar
----------

3 C unbleached flour
2 C sugar
3 tsp. baking powder
1/4 tsp. salt

2 sticks butter, melted and cooled--the original recipe calls for 1 C. vegetable oil
1/2 C chunky applesauce (I added this)
4 eggs
1/4 C orange juice concentrate--(original recipe calls for 7 Tbsp OJ)
2 tsp. vanilla

Directions:
Prepare apples. Add cinnamon and sugar. Toss & set aside.

Set oven to 350. Grease and flour two 9-inch cake pans or one bundt pan-- will take a longer baking time.

Add dry ingredients. Remember to add the extra 1/4 tsp. cinnamon. Mix to combine.

In a separate bowl, mix the wet ingredients.

Fold the wet ingredients into the dry. When well combined, gently fold in the apples.

Pour into pans or pan. Using shallow pans will take about 50 minutes while the bundt pan will take 1 hr. 45 minutes. I used 2 cake pans. You may have to switch cake between racks for even baking if cake is not in center of oven. Cake will be done when top is a deep golden brown and the buttery smell drives you near the point of insanity.

Allow to cool--warm to the touch is fine--before cutting.

It's great by itself. It also goes well with fruit compote, ice cream and creme fraiche.

Try it with Riesling, dessert wine or sparkling apple cider...or even some apple brandy.


THANKSGIVING PREVIEW~
Here's a recipe for the best turkey I ever made: Turkey with Sage Butter. It was just a few of us at a get-together, so I just used a 2- or 3-pound breast. I cut and rolled them into individual cutlets, like Chicken Kiev, but I didn't bread it. Turkey and butter may sound like they'd make strange bedfellows, yet it turned out very well and was not too hard. Brine the turkey. This means soaking it in a salt-seasoning-water solution for a few hours or, even better, overnight. Then let the meat dry a little on the surface. Prepare as usual. The original recipe calls for bacon. I didn't use any bacon, and it was still great.